South Face
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.7 from 62 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 15,210 total · 99/month |
Shared By: | Chris DeWitt on Aug 22, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose |
Description
This route is steep and exposed but the climbing is generally very mellow for the grade. Work a corner then pull a roof. Be careful of loose blocks.
P1: Low 5th class, 15m. Start around the left corner and climb a short pitch to a ledge with a bolted belay.
P2: 5.7, 20m. Cracks and face climbing lead to another bolted belay at a small ledge below the obvious right facing corner.
P3: 5.8, 30m. Climb the corner past a small roof to a bolted belay at a ledge.
P4: 5.9, 25m. Climb cracks straight above the belay to the summit. An easier version goes left at about 5.4, 30m
Location
Approach Note: be careful scrambling along the talus on the left side after dropping down from the pass, the last time I was there in Aug, an entire 50m wide section started sliding/avalanching. The hiker's trail to the right side of the valley is probably safer and only an additional 10 mins.
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