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South Face 

South Face 

5.8

   
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350 feet
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer
Submitted By: Chris DeWitt on Aug 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Grand Sentinel

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Description 

This route is steep and exposed but the climbing is generally very mellow for the grade. Work a corner then pull a roof. Be careful of loose blocks.

P1: Low 5th class, 15m. Start around the left corner and climb a short pitch to a ledge with a bolted belay.

P2: 5.7, 20m. Cracks and face climbing lead to another bolted belay at a small ledge below the obvious right facing corner.

P3: 5.8, 25m. Climb the corner past a bulge to a bolted belay at a ledge.

P4: 5.9, 25m. Climb cracks straight above the belay to the summit. An easier version goes left at about 5.4.


Location 

This route is on the south side of the Grand Sentinel.


Protection 

Standard rack, .3 to 4. Rappel with a 60m rope.



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South Face of Grand Sentinel

South Face of Grand Sentinel

Exposure on South Face of Grand Sentinel

Exposure on South Face of Grand Sentinel


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By Hans
From: North Vancouver, BC
Sep 5, 2012

Not much of a description, so I'll add what I can.

Approach via the trail to Sentinel Pass from Moraine Lake. As of 2012, a minimum of 4 people is required due to park restrictions from bear activity. However,this is a very popular hike so it is easy to join up with others at the trailhead.

The Grand Sentinel is located about 1km beyond the pass, towards the Paradise Valley.

P1: Low 5th class, 15m. Start around the left corner and climb a short pitch to a ledge with a bolted belay.

P2: 5.7, 20m. Cracks and face climbing lead to another bolted belay at a small ledge below the obvious right facing corner.

P3: 5.8, 25m. Climb the corner past a bulge to a bolted belay at a ledge.

P4: 5.9, 25m. Climb cracks straight above the belay to the summit. An easier version goes left at about 5.4.

As in the description, the climbing is not terribly difficult for the grade, although there is some loose rock and runout sections. As an alternative, I would recommend the well bolted sport route on the west face, Cardiac Arête. This is a better climb IMO.

By Chris DeWitt
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 13, 2012

Thanks Hans, I've updated the "Getting There" for the areas.