|Type: ||Trad, Snow, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1300', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Reese Martin, John Rich, Pete Pollard|
|Season: ||May to July|
|Page Views: ||1,518|
|Submitted By: ||cerickson on Jul 28, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: The South Face of the Middle Troll
|Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!|
Follow blocky terrain (trending right) with short steep sections aiming for the obvious crack just below/left of the summit. Route finding is a challenge lower, but it all leads to a super splitter, perfect-width hand crack. A couple of short cruxy sections lead to ledges below the summit. Rap anchors are set for double lines and are easy to locate.
Travel moderate snow slopes (caution: bergschrund!) and get on the rock as low as you can. Ditch your skis/snowshoes, switch to rock shoes and go! Unless there are unseasonably high snow conditions you can leave the boots behind and travel only with rock shoes once you've left the snow.
Full rack to a #3 or #4 camalot, set of nuts.
From: Carrboro, NC
Jun 22, 2012
Super, super classic climb. The rock quality is poor down low, with significant rock fall danger. Higher up the climbing becomes beautiful and highly enjoyable.
For descent, contrary to the above, rap anchors are set for single ropes. Don't haul a second rope up, as the route is a rope dragging beast, and you're doing well if you can avoid getting your rope stuck at least once. There is only one section that requires any down climbing, and that's for less than 40' traversing to another rap anchor. Any suspect anchors on the rap line from the summit were replaced in mid-June 2012.
|By Richard Shore|
May 21, 2013
The first three pitches are very chossy. Expect mud, lichen, moss, and gravel climbing; marginal gear; if you try it too early in the season, snow and ice as well. I found a small axe to be handy for clearing snow and chopping steps. Do yourself a favor and climb the snow gully all the way up to the alternate start, cutting out the first 2.5 pitches.