No longer cruisin' But look at those colors. No!...
Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress
and "Green A"
rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.
Two-rope rappels are necessary on a lot of routes, and be aware that although many of the old 1/4-inchers have been replaced, not all have. South-facing and hot in the summer, yet too high up in the canyon for the winter sun to effectively melt the snow equates to a great Spring/Fall area.
Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area
parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.
If this makes you nervous, skirt the signs by 50 feet and bushwhack up to the road.
Follow the dirt road to the point where it turns east at an eroded switchback and continue west on foot trails. These trails will get you to the routes in 15 minutes or so.
It is very easy to turn north too early on these trails, which will take you to the Peeler Face
area. Look for bolted slab routes that the trail passes.
Weather station 3.5 miles from here
17 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in South Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Featured Route For South Face
Daffy's Shaft 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
: Wasatch Range
: ... : South Face
This route was really cool. On the left end of the slabs is this bolted line. The first bolt is low and easy to get to. The second bolt has a thin slabby area to work with. The pin between the two is missing. Climb to the roof, protect it, and surmount it. It is easier than it looks. Place a piece in the crack to your right, and run it out to the next mini-roof. pop this and head to your last bolt. The crux is protected by an old angle piton. I was able to slot 1 brass and 1 BD micro t...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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