South Face 

You can fairly easily run the South Face in two pitches with a 60m (see photo)

A rather committing adventure, it's worth the approach. Good training for Snake Dike.

Great route a lot of fun definitely not a lot of pro on the second pitch but it was easy climbing, 3rd pitch I wouldn't really call that a chimney definitely seemed like an offwidth to me but doesn't make a difference since you use the face holds anyways. Make sure to bring lots of water (we didn't bring enough). And pay better attention on the approach so you don't end up bushwhacking through chaparral on the way back when you get off trail. All in all a great adventure climb and excellent workout! Also be careful with gear placements on the first pitch as some of the sandstone behind the flake sounds hollow and may not hold a fall if gear is placed there. But there is still plenty of good pro on the first pitch.

Confirm two pitches, I did a 190 ft first pitch and belayed off of a small tree/bush 15 feet below the cave. Try hiking in from tunnel trail for a real workout.

P1: >80ft
P2: ~120ft
P3: >60ft

Classic climbing; combining gross approach, liebacks, bushy ledges, dirty trees and amazing views of Santa Barbara. The low angle and easy climbing make bringing the SLR a no-brainer.

Maybe because of the location (SB isn't known for long trad routes) this climb has several 'fixed' pieces on it. When we climbed it on 10/9/10, someone must have rapped off the tricam (P1), leaving a brand new locking biner. I didn't booty it. There was also a jammed nut with biner on P2. We left that one too.

long approach for crappy rock and ok climbing. Especially crappy when you are caught in a winter rainstorm on the face...

Backcountry position, long approach, and adventurous climbing gets 3 stars. Consider it "alpine training"

With the fire and all the traffic, this route is cleaning up! Now there's dirty cracks, bushy ledges, weak flakes, plus some ash. I didn't need a toilet brush, though. As the summit register says, "best views in Santa Barbara." Hard to argue with that.

The hike was brutal, but the tree tunnel wasn't as bad as I had feared. The rock is not too good, lots of hollow flakes and gardens (gives it character). But assuming that this thing doesn't get alot of traffic, it is really not all that dirty for what I might have expected. The actual climbing was fun (but not great), just that the sketchy rock took away from it (but that is also part of the experience). I thought the face move to gain the P1 belay was the crux and is probably extremely height dependent. It felt solid 5.8 to me (but I wasn't about to fall on that gear!). Other than that, it was mostly lower 5-grade climbing with the occasional set of 5.6/7 moves.

Did it in 3 pitches, a set of BD stoppers, single set of cams TCU-#00 to BDC4-#5, 12 trad draws and a cordelette was a perfect amount of gear. Could have done without the #4 and #5, but I placed them.

This adventure is really worth doing, at least once.

Cordelette*

I think Joe Roland and I did the FA of the top two pitches. Not certain about that. I've camped in the cave, nice spot. This rock is not primarily about great climbing; it's more about a day of adventure, enjoying the chaparral and the hike, and having a fun time with companions.