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Belayer and climber on the South Face, 5.7.
Follow the crack/chimney formed by the right side of the pillar climbing either the crack or the face to the right of it to the top of the pillar. This is easy (5.5ish) and can be protected here and there with wires and a chockstone. The bolt just above the top of the pillar protects the crux of the climb which involves some steep face climbing with good holds. Keep heading straight up clipping one more bolt and one more piece of gear (wire) before arriving at the top. There is no fixed anchor here so set up your own belay.
To descend, climb over the top (easy) to the chains on the N. face.
From the approach trail, head to the left side of the Needle till you see the 40' pillar leaning against the S. face.
Standard rack + 2 bolts.
By Mitch Musci
Jun 28, 2007
The crux is definitely old school 5.7 - the holds aren't that good and the feet are tricky. Still a nice line.