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 ADVANCED
The Needle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bustin' Move S 
Damage Done, The S,TR 
Descent Route T,TR 
Momentary Lapse of Ethics S,TR 
Needle TR wall aka Uphill Slab TR 
North Lieback T 
South Face T 
Suburban Hangover S 
Temple of the Dog S 

South Face 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 399
Submitted By: Rich Kelly on May 27, 2007

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Belayer and climber on the South Face, 5.7.

Description 

Follow the crack/chimney formed by the right side of the pillar climbing either the crack or the face to the right of it to the top of the pillar. This is easy (5.5ish) and can be protected here and there with wires and a chockstone. The bolt just above the top of the pillar protects the crux of the climb which involves some steep face climbing with good holds. Keep heading straight up clipping one more bolt and one more piece of gear (wire) before arriving at the top. There is no fixed anchor here so set up your own belay.

To descend, climb over the top (easy) to the chains on the N. face.

Location 

From the approach trail, head to the left side of the Needle till you see the 40' pillar leaning against the S. face.

Protection 

Standard rack + 2 bolts.


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By Mitch Musci
Jun 28, 2007

The crux is definitely old school 5.7 - the holds aren't that good and the feet are tricky. Still a nice line.