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 ADVANCED
South Face

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Hidden Chimney, The T 
Rigging T 
Sharks Fin T 
Sickle T 
Sickle Roof T 
Sunshine Slab T 
Yellow Edge T 

South Face  


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Page Views: 1,588
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Greg DeMatteo on May 24, 2007
Forecast:
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Clear
70° | 47°
Partly Cloudy
72° | 46°
Clear
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Clear
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Clear
76° | 48°
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  • Falcon Closures from early February until mid-July. MORE INFO >>>
  • Falcon Closures from early February until mid-July. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is the sunniest part of Thumb Butte and can sizzle shoes in the hot months but also provide for decent climbing during the cold. Most routes are low-angle and allow for very creative protection and nutcraft. A few bolted routes exist as well as some crack sections, but most climbs are face climbing with natural pro.

    Getting There 

    Ascend the paved tourist trail to the shoulder and then look for a small climbers trail around to the south side. With packs total approach time is maybe 20 or 30 minutes.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 0.3 miles from here

    7 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
    Sunshine Slab   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
    Yellow Edge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
    Browse More Classics in South Face

    Featured Route For South Face
    Rachel Drattler under Sickle Roof, escaping out right to sickle.

    Sickle Roof 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : South Face
    Climb Sickle (5.10a) but instead of continuing to traverse under the roof, go straight out over the roof. a V5 boulder problem is the crux of this roof. If the roof proofs to be to challenging, you can still bust out right under the roof to finish on Sickles ending moves.Make sure the second is tall enough to reach the gear in the roof!! you will have to leave it if they cant....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

    Local Information for South Face
    Photos of South Face Slideshow Add Photo
    Routes 5.2-5.7
    BETA PHOTO: Routes 5.2-5.7
    Sharks fin gulley
    BETA PHOTO: Sharks fin gulley

    Comments on South Face Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By RadTrad
    From: Prescott, Arizona
    Oct 30, 2011
    Does anyone know if the roof has ever been free climbed? it looks incredible. I have yet to find any knowledge of it being climbed, any one know?
    By Kevin Keith
    Feb 27, 2012
    Mark Miller in the 80's. It's listed in Rusty Baille's Guide.