BETA PHOTO: The great South Face ©
This area is around the right side of Tahquitz which includes the Open Book area. This area offers some short climbs and is warm on cool day but heats up during the summer. It starts with the Open book Dihedral and keeps moving right and up. This area offers a variety of climbing, from good moderates to stout to even aid climbing.
The usual descent is the Friction Route, but there is also a rappel route starting on the 2 bolt anchor atop the Open book to a 2 bolt anchor for Green Arch and then down to the ground (you will need 2 ropes for this rappel).
From Lunch Rock head up and right to the base. Then follow the base around and right until you see the Open Book Dihedral. This is the start of the area.
Weather station 1.8 miles from here
22 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in South Face
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Face:
Featured Route For South Face
Open Book 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA
: Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
: ... : Open Book Area
This three pitch beauty ascends a very obvious dihedral.1) The first few moves off the deck are exciting and lead to an enjoyable first belay in a little nook.2) The second pitch contains the business. You layback a 4" crack for 60+ feet to gain a belay either inside a little cave or right after depending on what gear you have left.3) Pull the roof out of the alcove if that's where you set your belay, and continue up the dihedral in the left-side crack, much less steep and quite a bit easier tha...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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BETA PHOTO: overview of Open Book area