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South Face

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Open Book Area 
South Face - Left Side 
South Face - Right Side 

South Face  


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Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 33.75941, -116.6846 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 189,519
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dpurf on Feb 24, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The great South Face

Description 

This area is around the right side of Tahquitz which includes the Open Book area. This area offers some short climbs and is warm on cool day but heats up during the summer. It starts with the Open book Dihedral and keeps moving right and up. This area offers a variety of climbing, from good moderates to stout to even aid climbing.

The usual descent is the Friction Route, but there is also a rappel route starting on the 2 bolt anchor atop the Open book to a 2 bolt anchor for Green Arch and then down to the ground (you will need 2 ropes for this rappel).

Getting There 

From Lunch Rock head up and right to the base. Then follow the base around and right until you see the Open Book Dihedral. This is the start of the area.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

21 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',6],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Left Ski Track   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   South Face - Left Side
The Chauvinist   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   South Face - Left Side
Right Ski Track   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   South Face - Left Side
Mechanic's Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Open Book Area
Open Book   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 490'   Open Book Area
The Innominate   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Face - Left Side
Zig Zag   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Open Book Area
Chingadera   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   South Face - Left Side
Green Arch   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Open Book Area
Browse More Classics in South Face

Featured Route For South Face
Charlie, rounding the roof and arriving at the second Belay stance of Open Book <br />

Open Book 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Open Book Area
This three pitch beauty ascends a very obvious dihedral.1) The first few moves off the deck are exciting and lead to an enjoyable first belay in a little nook.2) The second pitch contains the business. You layback a 4" crack for 60+ feet to gain a belay either inside a little cave or right after depending on what gear you have left.3) Pull the roof out of the alcove if that's where you set your belay, and continue up the dihedral in the left-side crack, much less steep and quite a bit easier tha...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of South Face Slideshow Add Photo
overview of Open Book area
BETA PHOTO: overview of Open Book area

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