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The Foil
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South Face T 

South Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Duncan Ferguson and Mark Hesse
Page Views: 773
Submitted By: paco on Jan 27, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: From left to right (west to east) The Petit Grepon...

Description 

The South Face of The Foil starts out a lemon, but the upper half is classic. Being a solid 5.9 leader is a good thing on a few of the pitches on this route. Start up the lichen covered ledges and hit the sandbag 5.7 chimney above. By way of the Rossiter topo, we almost linked the 1st four pitches in two with a 60m rope. The only runout section on the runout pitch felt to be around 5.7/8? with a strenuous, well-protected, 5.9 section after that.

Just make sure you traverse left in the right spot to find the second to the last pitch. This is so damn good and exposed. This is the pitch you want to lead, so make sure your partner doesn't get it! You can also link the last two in one with 60m. After finishing the summit ow, you can take turns standing on perhaps the narrowest summit in the park.


Protection 

Bring along the old high peak rack up to a #4 Camalot and some extra small wires and TCUs.



Photos of South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Lee contemplating those last 5 shots of tequila we did last night at the Pioneer Inn at the second belay.
Lee contemplating those last 5 shots of tequila we...
The rappel off the summit is where Sonya is sitting, which if you do Poe Club is where you end up. The wide 4 inch crack leads to the summit proper where I am.
The rappel off the summit is where Sonya is sittin...
Columbines on July 29, 2012. Sky Pond below.
Columbines on July 29, 2012. Sky Pond below.
This is pitch 5, a short crack to your left takes small cams or nuts, protecting a short runout to more small gear. You have to balance somewhat to get to the 5.9+ crack in the middle, which is somewhat of a flake. Move way right to find the tiny belay seat at the northeast edge.
This is pitch 5, a short crack to your left takes ...
The start of the route is the wide crack system left of the overhangs. It's pretty obviously the easiest line up.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the route is the wide crack system le...
This is your 5.5 exit should you decide to do the "walk off" which is really scrambling on very loose scree and many obligatory rappels or hopping into alternate gullies. There must be three of them damned gullies over there!
BETA PHOTO: This is your 5.5 exit should you decide to do the ...
Looking down from pitch 2. Note the person standing below at the start.
Looking down from pitch 2. Note the person standin...
Sonya finding a nice crack up the south face for pitch 4.
Sonya finding a nice crack up the south face for p...
The three pin belay at the top of pitch 2. Quite spacious, well protected from the sun, and you could even weather some rain in here.
The three pin belay at the top of pitch 2. Quite s...
This is just below the summit, having followed the Poe Club 10a hand crack finish instead of the runout east face of South Face route. I highly recommend this finish.
BETA PHOTO: This is just below the summit, having followed the...
Three pin belay with background. The crack is where the pins are.
Three pin belay with background. The crack is wher...
The backside of the Foil where you rappel. The saddle has a rap anchor where you can then descend to the right if you have two ropes. If not, look straight back from the Foil and see a thin ridge. To the right of this ridge is a 5.5 crack you descend down a bit to the start and then lead out.
BETA PHOTO: The backside of the Foil where you rappel. The sad...
The ledge at the top of pitch 4. It's hard to make out in Ivan's photo, unfortunately, but it's quite large and walking about unroped is fine. A big block is the belay with a sling around its top. Pitch 5 goes up the south face of this large east buttress.
BETA PHOTO: The ledge at the top of pitch 4. It's hard to make...
This is your view once you get up the 5.5 exit. As you can see, a leisurely descent into Andrew Glacier is now possible. If you really want to walk off and not do a bunch of bogus gullyaneering, bring all of your crap with you and exit this way. Packs at the base of the route or near the lake? Well, bring two ropes to do the full raps.
BETA PHOTO: This is your view once you get up the 5.5 exit. As...
Comments on South Face Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 31, 2002

Did this route many years ago & the description is right about finding the correct path to the left on the last pitch. My partner didn't, & instead did a funky, lichen-covered, weird up & down face traverse to the right across the top of the east face then up to the summit. I don't recommend that finish - find the line.

By Tom Ormond
Jul 31, 2012

Just did this route. Thought it was great. The beginning is a loose, steep corner upto a weird flake below a fist-sized crack in a corner. The 2nd pitch goes through the lieback in the corner to a chimney all about 5.8 and well-protected. The next pitch has options, we took the clean face to the left at 10a not protected, for a full 200 ft pitch. We joined the route back at the 5.9 R section and moved around to the right to the mega kajunga, last pitch of 5.9+, well-protected, heart stopping exposure, the storm is coming for me the storm is coming for me.

The whole time we thought we were on the Petit Grepon. The first pitch put serious doubts in our mind. The mind that we share together, me and Lee.

I wonder how many stories start like that:

"Well we thought we were on the Petit Grepon until...."

The rappel off the north side is mank. Bring slings and biners you will leave behind, but it lands you around Poc Club, just a short scramble from the base of The South Face route.

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
4 days ago

The route on the north face is called the Poe Club and has some 5.11 near the start. However, once you are high up on South Face, if you find the runout unnerving just before the 4 inch crack to the summit, you can move right and find a nice hand crack that goes at 5.9+ (10a) that will get you up with good protection at slightly harder climbing. This leads to the rappel slings just below the summit.