|Type:||Trad, Alpine, Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Duncan Ferguson and Mark Hesse|
|Submitted By:||paco on Jan 27, 2002|
|Comments on South Face||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 31, 2002
|Did this route many years ago & the description is right about finding the correct path to the left on the last pitch. My partner didn't, & instead did a funky, lichen-covered, weird up & down face traverse to the right across the top of the east face then up to the summit. I don't recommend that finish - find the line.|
By Tom Ormond
Jul 31, 2012
Just did this route. Thought it was great. The beginning is a loose, steep corner upto a weird flake below a fist-sized crack in a corner. The 2nd pitch goes through the lieback in the corner to a chimney all about 5.8 and well-protected. The next pitch has options, we took the clean face to the left at 10a not protected, for a full 200 ft pitch. We joined the route back at the 5.9 R section and moved around to the right to the mega kajunga, last pitch of 5.9+, well-protected, heart stopping exposure, the storm is coming for me the storm is coming for me.
The whole time we thought we were on the Petit Grepon. The first pitch put serious doubts in our mind. The mind that we share together, me and Lee.
I wonder how many stories start like that:
"Well we thought we were on the Petit Grepon until...."
The rappel off the north side is mank. Bring slings and biners you will leave behind, but it lands you around Poc Club, just a short scramble from the base of The South Face route.
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 18, 2014
|The route on the north face is called the Poe Club and has some 5.11 near the start. However, once you are high up on South Face, if you find the runout unnerving just before the 4 inch crack to the summit, you can move right and find a nice hand crack that goes at 5.9+ (10a) that will get you up with good protection at slightly harder climbing. This leads to the rappel slings just below the summit.|