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The Foil
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South Face T 

South Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Duncan Ferguson and Mark Hesse
Page Views: 666
Submitted By: paco on Jan 27, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: From left to right (west to east) The Petit Grepon...


The South Face of The Foil starts out a lemon, but the upper half is classic. Being a solid 5.9 leader is a good thing on a few of the pitches on this route. Start up the lichen covered ledges and hit the sandbag 5.7 chimney above. By way of the Rossiter topo, we almost linked the 1st four pitches in two with a 60m rope. The only runout section on the runout pitch felt to be around 5.7/8? with a strenuous, well-protected, 5.9 section after that.

Just make sure you traverse left in the right spot to find the second to the last pitch. This is so damn good and exposed. This is the pitch you want to lead, so make sure your partner doesn't get it! You can also link the last two in one with 60m. After finishing the summit ow, you can take turns standing on perhaps the narrowest summit in the park.


Bring along the old high peak rack up to a #4 Camalot and some extra small wires and TCUs.

Photos of South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Lee contemplating those last 5 shots of tequila we did last night at the Pioneer Inn at the second belay.
Lee contemplating those last 5 shots of tequila we...
Columbines on July 29, 2012. Sky Pond below.
Columbines on July 29, 2012. Sky Pond below.
Comments on South Face Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 31, 2002

Did this route many years ago & the description is right about finding the correct path to the left on the last pitch. My partner didn't, & instead did a funky, lichen-covered, weird up & down face traverse to the right across the top of the east face then up to the summit. I don't recommend that finish - find the line.

By Tom Ormond
Jul 31, 2012

Just did this route. Thought it was great. The beginning is a loose, steep corner upto a weird flake below a fist-sized crack in a corner. The 2nd pitch goes through the lieback in the corner to a chimney all about 5.8 and well-protected. The next pitch has options, we took the clean face to the left at 10a not protected, for a full 200 ft pitch. We joined the route back at the 5.9 R section and moved around to the right to the mega kajunga, last pitch of 5.9+, well-protected, heart stopping exposure, the storm is coming for me the storm is coming for me.

The whole time we thought we were on the Petit Grepon. The first pitch put serious doubts in our mind. The mind that we share together, me and Lee.

I wonder how many stories start like that:

"Well we thought we were on the Petit Grepon until...."

The rappel off the north side is mank. Bring slings and biners you will leave behind, but it lands you around Poc Club, just a short scramble from the base of The South Face route.