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The Goose
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South Face 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 874
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Dec 3, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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  • Description 

    This is a great route on good rock that provides great exposure on a really nice line. The route protects well where needed.

    The South Side of the Goose has a smaller tower connected to its bottom (Eastern) half. As you approach the Goose from the Fern Canyon trail you will see this outcrop of rock about half way up the South side. There is a large blocky dihedral where the Goose and this outcrop meet. That is the start of the route.

    You can approach the route by hiking up Fern Canyon. Hike some 200 feet or so beyond the Southern Goose Egg and then hike right up the gully navigating among some boulders. Hiking along the base of the Fiddlehead worked for us.

    P1- (we did this climb with a 60m rope) Climb up the blocky dihedral. Once you reach the top you will have to climb left (West) up a 30 ft fin (crux) (Roach mentions climbing the "scoop" on the right of the fin. Although less exposed and potentially easier, it looked too licheny). This will put you on an easy ramp. We belayed at a couple of nice bolts from a sport route that runs some 30 feet left.

    P2- Traverse right (East) some 45 feet and find a ramp that runs the entire length of the South face to the summit. Climb into the ramp and romp up... Belay were you can.

    P3- Continue a short ways up the ramp to the notch and scramble up 10 feet to the Southern summit.

    Descent- We downclimbed to the notch between the two summits (easy but really exposed) and down to hiking territory on the West of the Goose. I guess you can rappel off the top of the South Summit, we saw the anchors but were unsure about the length of the rappel (looked longer than 100ft).

    Protection 

    Standard Flatiron rack, mostly small to medium pieces.


    Comments on South Face Add Comment
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    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 4, 2001

    This route is shown in a photo in Rossiter's latest guide (page 65). However, I believe the line in the photo is incorrectly placed for the lower half, the route actually starts somewhat higher than indicated.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 17, 2006
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Done as per Rossiter's book, the lower half is a little loose and probably a sand-bag. The upper ramp/slab is some of the finest low-angle climbing in the Flatirons.