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Red Devil
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Berserker T 
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South Face T 

South Face 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: George Bell on Oct 25, 2001

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Looking east from Dinosaur Mountain before sunrise...

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To find this route, follow the Mallory Cave trail past the cave as it switchbacks up the gully between the Finger Flatiron and Red Devil. On one switchback, the trail passes within 6' of the base of this route, which may be identified by a slot with a tree about 20' up. The trees on this route make for a lot of pine needles on this route, which detract from the climb.

Climb up the slot, passing two trees. Descend a short ramp right, then head up another ramp to the left, ending at a large pine tree (prominent from below) at the edge of a large ledge, 120'. Follow the ledge east 20', and climb a short 50' pitch to the summit (5.0).

Protection 

Light rack plus some long slings.


Photos of South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Mark Oveson basking in the morning "FlatironG...
Mark Oveson basking in the morning "FlatironG...

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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 10, 2003
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

From the Tree at the top of the first pitch you can also head straight up the vertical face above you to the north and over the slab to the top (5.8-, S). Don't fall for the first 20' as there is no pro there, so you'd hit the ledge.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 19, 2003

Always curious about this one. P1 starts in a clump of poison ivy & is 100' almost exactly. I wouldn't rap it with a 60m rope. Partly in shade. Sticky pine tar on last slab. Not much pro on P2.
By Rick Casey
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Jun 18, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Watch out for the loose rock on the ledge on top where you walk off; one of my partners knocked some off with just the slightest touch. Also: there's broken beer bottle glass on top that needs to be removed, left by some inconsiderate souls....