Between Moby Dick and Dem Bones:
P1: Start by the Madrone tree just up from the _guard_ rock near the bottom of the Moby Dick gully. Follow the quasi-buttress, chicken-headed path to a good ledge and belay here on gear.
P2: Follow the chicken head highway till it runs out (breathe...) then run it out to a semi-hanging stance on very large chicken heads.
P3: Continue upward along the path of least resistance to another good ledge.
P4: Continue up the direct route on giant c-h's till they run out. Prepare for an extremely long run out heading for the dike composed of large knife-like plates then laterally to the left to the belay station (two bolts) on the last pitch of Moby Dick.
P5: Finish on the last pitch of Moby Dick
Take slings for chicken head hiking and small to medium stoppers, tri-cams, and Aliens.
|By Steve Pulver|
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 26, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13
P4 can be done by traversing farther to the right instead of taking the direct route. This is slightly steeper but no scarey runouts; chickenheads can be used for protection.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Dec 30, 2008
Took all of my 70 meter rope to reach the belay ledge and fins at the end of pitch 3. It was a little hard to be sure we were on the route so we stuck to the easiest possible line. Pitch four we angled left on the plates then moved right on gator skin to a thin dike the quickly got bigger and a lot easier. Lots of fun unless you blow it, then you are dead!
Nov 17, 2010
The approach trail was a bit hard to find all the parts on the way up (more obvious on the way down), but river bed will work just as well when dry. Only gear used was stoppers bigger than BD #8 (single set), a BD 0.75 cam equivalent and a BD 2.0 cam equivalent. Plenty of slings of course! Probably more placements exist, but I hate mucking about with gear while thinking about the cheese grater fall. Well worth effort if you are comfortable with the runout.
|By Bill Lawry|
From: New Mexico
Apr 26, 2011
As of Arpil 2011, there is a huge fallen tree spanning the main approach drainage just below Whale Dome (4 foot diameter?). One can pass beneath this and then up on the Whale Dome side into the steep vague drainage that leads to Moby Dick.
The vague drainage will narrow after passing the base of the huge 'guard' rock on the left. Look for a kind of person+ sized easy slot heading right along the base of Whale Dome with the madrona tree in it. You've ascended past this slot (by 50 feet?) if you get to a point where the vague drainage to Moby Dick is spanned by an economy-car sized boulder. The base of the climb is at the slots madrona tree.
About P1: The madronna branch at the crux is dieing or dead and so provides psychological pro. Suggest a bolt as noted again in this Photo.
And here's a different way to do P2/P3/P4 ...
About P2: We ended pitch 1 at the top of the giant flake which made our P2 rather longish with some run-out up high before the unprotected traverse. We set out top-of-P2 belay just before the unprotected traverse. Next time I'd go higher on P1 just to keep the rope length down on P2 (reduce the stretch should the leader fall in the P2 runout sections).
About our P3: Our's started by making the unprotected traverse up and then right, right off the belay, building a belay anchor where the chicken head's run out. This seemed about right for our P3 - besides, this way, a 60 meter rope won't reach the anchor bolts just before the last pitch.
|By brian benedon|
Feb 23, 2014
I'm glad I didn't know it was rated X when I climbed it back in 97, I would not have climbed it if I had known, don't tell my mom.
I don't remember it that way though. My only concern were the single head belay stations.
I chose to simule climb all but the 1st and last pitches so we could keep a few pieces between us.