The South Face of Sugarloaf is most impressive of the three climb-able sides. It faces downhill and contain predominantly hard bolted face climbs. Bolee Gold (.10c) is the easiest route on the face and offers two quality pitches of sustained smearing and crimping. Many climbs start by walking around to the right side of the face and making a 5th class move (you can protect) before moving onto easy slabs and up to the first belays.
Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The South face is staring directly at you as you hike.
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf, South Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf, South Face:
Bolee Gold 5.10c Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet
Featured Route For Sugarloaf, South Face
Bolee Gold 5.10c CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, South Face
Bolee Gold begins at the end of the big ramp on the south face of Sugarloaf. From here, follow the line of bolts straight up the thin face towards the top anchors of 'Hookers Haven' (the 12a to the right). Bolee Gold doesn't use the anchors, but continues left towards the arete then up to the first set of anchors. The first pitch totals 7 bolts. The second pitch continues straight up past another 7 bolts to another hanging belay. The two pitches can be done as one for a 150' non-stop sustai...[more] Browse More Classics in CA