The route shares the first 4 pitches with the "Spigolo" Route, and a major traverse ledge is followed to the left until a bolted anchor is reached. (ca. 25 meters). Some relatively unprotected face is followed upwards (20 meters) to another stance (5.5,bolt). Another pitch diagonals L, unprotected face (5.4-5.5, Bolt). The next pitch (crux) is a traverse to the right and a belay stance at the base of a chimney (5.6, bolt). The chimney is followed upwards for 2 pitches, and after skirting a small roof at it's left edge,traversing into another short chimney, where the difficulties begin to ease. Aim towards a small notch in the N. Ridge where the route terminates after another 4-5 pitches.
The route is reached by parking near the Hospital and strolling over the rising meadows to the R. base of the wall. Climbers path is evident.
All belay stances are bolted. Very little fixed protection. Bring a normal rack with some larger cams up to #3 Camalot.
|Photos of South Face, "Via Commune." Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: indicator lines show final "notch" where the route...
Looking across the face towards "Via Commune," fro...
BETA PHOTO: Upper portion of the Punta Fiames, shows the chimn...
|Comments on South Face, "Via Commune."
|By Rodger Raubach|
Apr 20, 2013
This route is listed in Classic Dolomite Climbs, Anette Koehler/ Norbert Memel, Baton-Wicks London, (1998).
The Via Commune is route #50, and a good topo is included therein. My description above is from my first-hand experience on the first 4 pitches before traversing over to the "spigolo." Maurizio de Zanna gave me a rudimentary topo and some beta at the time. Said it was very unprotected, but the climbing was fairly easy and straightforward. As a general rule, the "Spigolo Fiames" is more popular, but the "Via Commune" isn't a bad alternative.