South Face Right/Lower Tangen Tower 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | George Bell on Jan 14, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: Yellow dots show the line of the route.
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Description This climb lies about 75' right of the regular route on the Lower Tangen Tower. It is really in the middle of the South Face. Only about 50' off the Royal Arch Trail, look for a block under a steep face full of huecos with a short vertical crack to the right of the huecos.
Start on the block, and place pro in the crack. Climb the huecos to the the left of the crack, and follow them as they wander up and left. When the huecoes die out, head up and right to pass an overhang (crux). Watch out for loose rock in this area, we trundled a toaster-sized block here.
You are now on a large ledge. Head right (east) and climb a short slot to emerge on the east face. Follow this 100' to the top (almost no pro but only about 5.5). The entire climb can be done in one ~160' long pitch (but watch for rope drag).
This climb is pretty good but is slightly loose right at the crux. You have to be clever stuffing cams in holes to protect it.
Protection Standard rack to #3 Camalot.
| Comments on South Face Right/Lower Tangen Tower |
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By Bill Wright
May 30, 2003
rating: 5.9
| I climbed the route directly above the crack and found it pretty exciting. The crack is more of a flare and it is difficult to get good gear here. I'd bring a blue Alien if I returned. I got in two marginal pieces in the crack and then a good orange Alien in a horizontal crack above that. The moves onto the ramp from here were a bit dicey. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 30, 2003
rating: 5.9
| I did the route as drawn this AM- not that I knew where the route was suposed to go, but just as the holds seemed the best. It was reasonably solid until above the roof, where you can see the leftward rising crack- I did double fist jams in that in somewhat poor rock. The crux move was a big move off of OK feet and a bomber undercling near the roof, below the 'loose' crack.
Like most routes here, it was short. Even with the long slab up top, it broke the charictor enough to make the route less fun. Adding to the 'less fun' was picking though for solid sports and avoiding the bad rock that is present.
5.9 seems right. The upper slab seemed like 5.3 and the well-huecoed section seemed 5.7
Cams narrower than Camalots will work better in the relatively round pockets. I'd wager HB quadcam 3.8's would go every few feet, but the blue/grey Camalots would be undercammed in any pocket they'd fit into laterally. I didn't place any gear, so I'm just guessing. |
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