|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 180'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Frank Trummel, Mike Graber, Hooman Aprin, 1975|
|Submitted By:||Chris Wenker on May 31, 2011|
|Comments on South Face Right||Add Comment|
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Apr 2, 2012
I've done a version of this, now twice, both times starting in the left crack to the top of the first pillar then moving right. The left start is good but warrants extreme care due to stacked flakes at the start. This first pitch is very nice.
Exiting the belay to start the second pitch is really quite dicey. There are a handful of flakes that ring hollow and are fractured, as well as a pillar wedged in the left chimney, any of which are suspect and would compromise both leader and belayer. The exit rap from the ledge down and right also does not look promising, though it would probably go. Traversing there has high probability of knocking looseness off, and the rap anchors were placed in a block sitting on top of the pillar, rather than into the wall behind.
In both instances I summitted directly from this belay, which involves somewhat serious climbing. Not a beginner's route.
The first pitch would be very worthwhile in its own right if suitable descent anchors were available.