Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3500 ft (1061 m), Grade II
FA: D Anger, F Riley, S Silverstein, 1959
Page Views: 1,001 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Dec 15, 2010
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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A camp above the Houston Glacier was used. Camping might be good at Houston Lake, if the Melville Glacier does not seem to be dropping serac blocks into the lake. The first technical climbing is a traverse, northeast, along the Melville Glacier. Easy scrambling up the rib is followed by snow to the summit rocks.

[NOTE- When we were there in 1995 both the Melville and Houston glaciers were well away from the lake, and camping was fine...except it is a windy place when the weather goes to sh-t. R Hall ]

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