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Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta
Routes Sorted
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Pico 17,612 North Face T 
Pico Ojeda NE Ridge T 
Pico Ojeda North Face T 
Pico Ojeda Southwest Snowramp T 
Pico Oriental North Face T 
South Face of Pico La Reina T 

South Face of Pico La Reina 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI5

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI5 [details]
FA: Todd Swain & Tad Welch 01-1983
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: Gunkswest on Nov 5, 2012

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Description 

The route climbs a prominent icy chimney that is similar to, but harder than, the crux of the Black Dike on Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire. Above the chimney, continue on easier ground up toward the huge overhang. Skirt the right side of the spectacular overhang that is festooned with giant icicles that hang in space. Easier climbing leads a snow ridge, which can be followed up and right (east) to the summit (18,158 feet).

Location 

In the left center of the south face at about 2/3 height is a huge overhang with icicles dripping from it. This route starts roughly below the left edge of the huge overhang.

Protection 

Carry an alpine rack.


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