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South Face, Jello Tower 
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South Face, Jello Tower 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, D. Collins
Page Views: 1,244
Submitted By: ScottH on Feb 1, 2006
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Phil Gleason at the crux, South Face Jello Tower, ...
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Description 

This is the steep face left of the Midway chimney. Climb steep terrain to a bulge midway up the face. After pulling through the bulge, the difficulties ease. The climbing and the gear are both better than they look from the ground. Belay from bolts on top of Jello Tower (shared by all Jello Tower routes). Consistently fun and interesting 5.8+ moves the whole way.


Protection 

Gear to 2".



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By Ray Birks
Apr 27, 2006

This climb was harder than I thought it would be and definitley gets an 8+ or a 9 rating (maybe). It is very exposed and steep through the first crack section but you can put some gear in below the bulge. There is a bolt above the bulge but to pull through it was somewhat difficult. After that it's pretty straightforward to the chains.

By Shaun Johnson
May 2, 2013

A new anchor has been placed on top of The Nose and The South Face of Jello Tower.
This makes it easier to repelle off Jello Tower when other groups are on Midway.

By Allison Herrington
From: Leavenworth
Sep 1, 2013

This is one of the best 5.8's in Leavenworth! Most leaders who can only lead 5.8 or 5.9 will find it difficult. Since it's steep, it's a safe lead, though.