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South Face (Fehrmann) T 

South Face (Fehrmann) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Rudolph Fehrmann, Oliver Perry-Smith, August 1908
Season: Summer and early Fall
Page Views: 98
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Dec 21, 2012

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Description 

The crux is the overhanging stemming corner on the third pitch.

There are several fixed descents off this tower. If one is planning on linking this climb with Torre Winkler then the first rappel goes down through a tight crevice to the north to gain a large traverse ledge. Head east for about 50-100 feet then tunnel back around to the south east side of the tower to find the next anchor. From there several rappels lead either to the start of the more popular Torre Winkler routes or one can continue to the ground.

Location 

From the left edge of the tower scramble up 100 feet or so to a big ledge. Rope up and climb the first pitch which traverses onto the center of the tower.

Protection 

A few larger cams up to 3" are helpful on the crux pitch.


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By Rodger Raubach
May 16, 2014

This was one of the first routes in Europe with an American (Oliver Perry-Smith) as one of the first ascentionists. Many of Perry-Smith's routes in the Dresdener Sandstein are still quite serious and were of 5.9-5.10 difficulty.