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South Face Diagonal 

5.9 PG13

   
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Type: Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
FA: Jonathan & Brian Smoot, 2003
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: bsmoot on Dec 23, 2011

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Brian Cabe following the 3rd pitch

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Description 

This route follows a series of unique diagonal ribs/ramps which are connected with mostly moderate face/slab climbing to the top of the South face. The rock is soft, white sandstone. All of the bad bolts & belays have been fixed, for now...

Descend route using 2 - 50 meter ropes.


Location 

Approach from above via the Deertrap Mt. Trail. Takes about 2 - 3 hours. Follow trail for about 3 miles, passing Hidden Canyon drainage to a small rise and several switchbacks in the trail. Exit trail at the top of the rise. Hike north, descending to a slick rock gully which leads to the South face. Bringing a topo map is prudent.


Protection 

1 - .75 camalot, 6 long draws



Photos of South Face Diagonal Slideshow Add Photo
Topo

Topo

Jonathan on pitch two. See climber at bottom center of photo.

Jonathan on pitch two. See climber at bottom cente...

Brian C. hiking last pitch.

Brian C. hiking last pitch.

Near the summit - unroping area, Brian & Rick.

Near the summit - unroping area, Brian & Rick.

At the base of the south face, Reverend Wyatt telling the other sheep: "This is what happens if you don't rope up".

At the base of the south face, Reverend Wyatt tell...

GWT from the trail

BETA PHOTO: GWT from the trail


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By Ben Folsom
Dec 24, 2011

Thanks Brian, this looks great.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 26, 2012

Thanks Bros Smoot for another fine adventure route! As of Nov 17 all the lead bolts and anchors were solid. The first bolt on the 4th pitch has a loose hanger but held a couple of falls just fine - should have brushed up on my sandy slab skills before tackling this one! With a good topo map and BrianSLC's excellent approach beta it was a leisurely 3 hour approach - key is heading north just after getting the awesome view towards the East Temple and into Pine Creek.