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Castle Rock Proper
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Access Route T,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Chock Stone T,TR 
Face TR 
Farewell to Arms T,TR 
South Face Center TR 
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South Face Center 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 719
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 15, 2008

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Jaclyn Paik, 10, trying to pull the roof. Photo c...


This is an old moderate problem which has eroded into a more challenging roof move.

Ascend a slab to the middle of the lower roof. Fight through this problem with a variety of mantle, heel hook, and funky friction. Apparently, a hold broke off in the last decade and made it a tricky problem. It is particularly challenging for short kids.

For a moderate variation (~5.7) you can skirt the first roof on the left, then ascend easier terrain above to the anchor.


Up the middle of the south face.


Long slings to anchor off the pole up top. Once, there was a chockston up top to use, but now it seems like the pole is all that remains. There is a pocket that may catch your eye just below the top, but a sideways force yanks it right out.

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