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 ADVANCED
Petroleum Base Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chossy's Nice Twin T,TR 
Petroleum Based T 
South End TR 
Unsorted Routes:

South End 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: rdlennon on Oct 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Christopher Lane working South End.

Description 

This fun climb follows the slanting hand-sized crack around an arete, then follows that arete to the top of the FK buttress. Beginning at the obvious right-angling crack on the right side of the FK Face, strenuously layback the crack until you are around the corner and safely on a ledge. Continue up the crimpy face, or, for a more exciting alternative, follow the arete proper to the top, as for Nob Job.

Location 

This is just left of Petroleum Based, right of the City Dump overhang.

Protection 

The crack would take good gear, but almost all protection ends at the ledge. Better to toprope this one.


Photos of South End Slideshow Add Photo
Start of South End, on FK Face, showing the giant crack leaning to the right.
BETA PHOTO: Start of South End, on FK Face, showing the giant ...
Start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Start of the route.
Schematic showing the approximate finale of South End (5.7) on Petroleum-Based Buttress, according to Boston Rocks 2nd ed. FK Face is around the corner to the left.
BETA PHOTO: Schematic showing the approximate finale of South ...
Alan Jenkins working South End.
Alan Jenkins working South End.

Comments on South End Add Comment
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By Russ Keane
Oct 6, 2013

The bottom of this is an EXCELLENT bouldering problem. Pull the overhanging crack, then keep going up (right) to the ledge and top out on the easy ramp. Very cool. I believe the climb itself goes straight up the arete, for which you will want a rope unless you are very brave and good!!!