South East Butress  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 260 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  ?? Submitted By:  Gaar on Mar 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

South East Butress

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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing. See www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/2012-climbing-closures-announced.h>>> for more info This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Any climber who has driven through the main canyon has seen and wondered about this climb. It took me almost 2 years to go and do it but really worth it. But you do have to LOVE ofwidth.


P1: 5.9 60ft This pitch gives the meaning of "Zion Funky"
Really weird moves thrown in with "Chalkstone O' Death" on questionable rock. The chalkstone is actually somewhat solid. 2 bolt anchor at the lip.

P2: The Goods 5.10+ 130ft Exit the belay and Climb in your face fist and off hands to a squeeze. From here you can reach left and clip a bolt or skip it and go through a few weird pods to a 2 Bolt hanging belay.

P3: 5.9+ 60ft continue up the crack which turn into a well protected flaring squeeze, on frail varnished rock. Quickly turns into a tight hands roof with a crazy fun exposed move turning the lip. Varied splitter climbing on odd but good rock leads to a ledge with a anchor.

Decent:
Walk / Bush wack 200 yards to climbers left and rap a fixed line in the gully. If you don't want to rap the fixed line 2 Single rope raps (off the good anchors for the fixed line) lead to the ground

Location 

The "OTHER SIDE" of angles landing.

Walk the Angles Landing trail until the first switch back. Break through the initial scrub oak to a well defined deer trail heading directly torward the climb. After 5 min head down a big sandy hill and cross a creek to a grassy field. Veer right torward the base of the climb before the hillside while looking for a cairn lined trail on the left. This will lead to the base of the decent and fixed line. walk the base right to the climb. 25min car to climb

Protection 

Whole roll of tape and a old long sleeve shirt. I dare you to climb it with out that

Single 60m rope

Single set yellow TCU - 4.5 Camolot
Doubles #2camolot
Triples #3camolot #3.5camolot
Doubles #4.5