South East Arete/Second 5.7
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Warren Teissier approaches the crux of the SE Aret...
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Description This is a great classic route. It's first ascent was done solo by Layton Kor, and is fairly typical Kor material. (read burly)
Hike to the base of the Second Flatiron and then scramble South West (up and left) for some 200 yards. Eventually the huge overhang will come into view as well a slab underneath it.
P1 - Climb the slab, staying close to its South side, to a point just below and left of the overhang and some large flakes. This is easy slab climbing for some 140 feet.
P2 - Climb up and traverse right towards the flakes. These flakes are described as "spooky looking" by Roach and trust me, they are. Good pro is lacking for the traverse but great pro is available to the right of the flake. A pin protects the crux and can be backed up with a great stopper just above it. Crank onto the very exposed flake and belay some 20 feet above.
P3 - Climb up to the South of the overhang and run the rope up a 5.2, smooth ramp, traversing right eventually to get onto the ridge.
P4 - Run up another easy pitch to the top of the South Block.
Descent - Scramble North around a large pinnacle to the notch between the pinnacle and the summit block. From there, downclimb West to hiking territory.
Protection Standard Flatiron rack.
Warren Teissier enjoying sun and perfect rock on t...
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Warren Teissier climbs over the arch on the SE Are...
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Conan just above the big flake.
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BETA PHOTO: Second Flatiron. SE Arete. Pitch 2.
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Jonny making good use of his very long legs at the...
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Unknown climber on the south arete of the 2nd Flat...
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Starting too far to the right/north. Interesting t...
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| Comments on South East Arete/Second |
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 19, 2002
| I'm not sure why this route gets 3 stars. It is a One-Move-Wonder.
The first pitch is 5.0 (or easier) with one 5.4 move. The second pitch has about 30 feet of fun climbing (getting up to and through the flakes as described above) and is otherwise uneventful. The 3rd pitch is runout 5.2 to 5.5 climbing (depending on the route you pick). The 4th pitch is 4th class.
It's not that it's a bad climb, it's just not that exciting or particularly asthetic. I wouldn't recommend it as a destination climb. If you are out there, and everything else is crowded, go ahead and climb it, but don't make a special trip.
-Larry Lindeman |
By Brian Hansen
From: West of Boulder, CO
Nov 16, 2002
| I would have to disagree. This is a fine destination climb, given the crowds on nearby rocks. No one is ever on the SE ridge. And what better way to climb the Second, besides scrambling up the descent route? |
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2004
rating: 5.7
| Over the easy terrain, there are lots of loooong run outs. If you wanted to boost the pro factor, I think a #4 Camalot would be useful at several points on this route (I left mine at home).
This route has great views of Boulder and of the 3rd Flatiron, but otherwise the 1st, 3rd, and 4th pitches are pretty monotonous. The 2nd pitch on the other hand is excellent. |
By evanvv
Apr 15, 2007
| Lead the second pitch of three. Scrambled from the summit down and caught a nice traverse into a summit lead on the Pullman Car. |
By Ralph Bodenner
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.7
| First pitch is interesting if you stay near the shallow corner and do some stemming.
If you belay a bit further past the roof to end P2, past the fixed bong and after you turn the corner left, you can do a 190-foot P3 up the watercourse to a cozy belay at an arch with plentiful gear (more gear at the belay than on the whole pitch).
I disagree with AC, this is an aesthetically pleasing route. Attack an obvious weakness on a distinct section of the formation, then climb a natural feature (the watercourse) to a natural high point. Layton Kor had a good eye. |
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