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South Early Winters Spire

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Direct East Buttress T 
Hitchhiker, The T 
Northwest Face T 
Passenger, The T 
South Arete T 
Southwest Couloir 
SW Rib T 

South Early Winters Spire 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,807'
Page Views: 27,959
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Sep 18, 2008
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Chance of Rain
62° | 38°
Chance of Rain
58° | 36°
Chance of Rain
59° | 36°
Chance of Rain
62° | 38°
Chance of Rain
63° | 36°
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Ridge Traverse to the Summit Pinnacle

Description 

South Early Winters Spire is the highest summit of the Liberty Bell Group. Just South of the 'North Spire', rock is excellent granite and there are routes on all sides. The South Arete, SW Couloir, and SW Rib are very popular. With an easy approach up the Blue Lake Trail, or from the hairpin turn on Hwy 20, SEWS features many very accessible routes.

FA via the Southwest Couloir on July 20, 1937. Kenneth Adam, Rafi Bedayn, and W. Kenneth Davis.


Getting There 

Blue Lake Trail - ~1 hour of hiking on the trail leads to a meadow and opening on the NW side of the spire. Leave the maintained trail here, and head up and left on obvious climber paths. The SEWS is the rightmost of the obvious peaks.

Getting to routes on the East side of the peak is best accomplished via parking at the hairpin turn on hwy 20, and following easy gullies, climber trails, and open alpine terrain to the obvious base of the spire.


Climbing Season


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Early Winters Spire:
South Arete   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   
SW Rib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   
Direct East Buttress   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches   
The Hitchhiker   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 900'   
Northwest Face   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
The Passenger   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   
Browse More Classics in South Early Winters Spire

Featured Route For South Early Winters Spire
p1

The Passenger 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  WA : Northwest Region : ... : South Early Winters Spire
The Passenger is one of the best rock climbs in the Cascades. It is a long grade III or short grade IV, usually done in 7-8 pitches on flawless rock.p1 -5.10D (160 feet)Double Cracks right from the ground. Climb toward a massive roof and go left under roof clipping one bolt. Crux moves come before and after the roof. Belay is bolted.P2. 5.11bish. 140'ishClimb mellow cracks up the face above you to a roof. Roof has bolt on it. Pull roof through to the right via strange flares and campus moves. Th...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of South Early Winters Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Phil Gleason approaching South Early Winter Spire in a freezing September cloud, 2011.
Phil Gleason approaching South Early Winter Spire ...
North and South Early Winter Spires
BETA PHOTO: North and South Early Winter Spires
View from the summit of SEWS
View from the summit of SEWS
Climbing the South Arete
Climbing the South Arete
Another party descending the South Arete.
Another party descending the South Arete.
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