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South Early Winters Spire
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Select Route:
Direct East Buttress 
Northwest Face 
Passenger, The 
South Arete 
Southwest Couloir 
SW Rib 

South Early Winters Spire 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,807'
Page Views: 13,067. Good page?   
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Sep 18, 2008

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Chance of a Thunderstorm
64° | 45°
Chance of Rain
66° | 43°
Chance of Rain
72° | 45°
Chance of Rain
72° | 46°
Chance of Rain
75° | 48°

BETA PHOTO: North and South Early Winter Spires

Description 

South Early Winters Spire is the highest summit of the Liberty Bell Group. Just South of the 'North Spire', rock is excellent granite and there are routes on all sides. The South Arete, SW Couloir, and SW Rib are very popular. With an easy approach up the Blue Lake Trail, or from the hairpin turn on Hwy 20, SEWS features many very accessible routes.

FA via the Southwest Couloir on July 20, 1937. Kenneth Adam, Rafi Bedayn, and W. Kenneth Davis.


Getting There 

Blue Lake Trail - ~1 hour of hiking on the trail leads to a meadow and opening on the NW side of the spire. Leave the maintained trail here, and head up and left on obvious climber paths. The SEWS is the rightmost of the obvious peaks.

Getting to routes on the East side of the peak is best accomplished via parking at the hairpin turn on hwy 20, and following easy gullies, climber trails, and open alpine terrain to the obvious base of the spire.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Early Winters Spire:
South Arete   5.5     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II   
SW Rib   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   
Direct East Buttress   5.11a     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade III   
The Passenger   5.11+     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in South Early Winters Spire

Featured Route For South Early Winters Spire
p1

The Passenger 5.11+  WA : North Cascades : ... : South Early Winters Spire
The Passenger is one of the best rock climbs in the Cascades. It is a long grade III or short grade IV, usually done in 7-8 pitches on flawless rock.p1 -5.10D (160 feet)Double Cracks right from the ground. Climb toward a massive roof and go left under roof clipping one bolt. Crux moves come before and after the roof. Belay is bolted.P2. 5.11bish. 140'?Climb mellow cracks up the face above you to a roof. Roof has bolt on it. Pull roof through the right via strange flares and campus moves, hard to...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA


Photos of South Early Winters Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Ridge Traverse to the Summit Pinnacle

Ridge Traverse to the Summit Pinnacle

Climbing the South Arete

Climbing the South Arete

View from the summit of SEWS

View from the summit of SEWS

Phil Gleason approaching South Early Winter Spire in a freezing September cloud, 2011.

Phil Gleason approaching South Early Winter Spire ...