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South Early Winters Spire

Select Route:
Boving Roofs T 
Direct East Buttress T 
Hitchhiker, The T 
Northwest Face T 
Passenger, The T 
South Arete T 
Southern Man T 
Southwest Couloir 
SW Rib T 

South Early Winters Spire  

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Elevation: 7,807'
Location: 48.51216, -120.65513 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 46,501
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Sep 18, 2008
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South Early Winters Spire is the highest summit of the Liberty Bell Group. Just South of the 'North Spire', rock is excellent granite and there are routes on all sides. The South Arete, SW Couloir, and SW Rib are very popular. With an easy approach up the Blue Lake Trail, or from the hairpin turn on Hwy 20, SEWS features many very accessible routes.

FA via the Southwest Couloir on July 20, 1937. Kenneth Adam, Rafi Bedayn, and W. Kenneth Davis.

Getting There 

Blue Lake Trail - ~1 hour of hiking on the trail leads to a meadow and opening on the NW side of the spire. Leave the maintained trail here, and head up and left on obvious climber paths. The SEWS is the rightmost of the obvious peaks.

Getting to routes on the East side of the peak is best accomplished via parking at the hairpin turn on hwy 20, and following easy gullies, climber trails, and open alpine terrain to the obvious base of the spire.

Climbing Season

Weather station 12.6 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Early Winters Spire:
South Arete   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   
SW Rib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   
Direct East Buttress   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches   
The Hitchhiker   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 900'   
Northwest Face   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
The Passenger   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   
Browse More Classics in South Early Winters Spire

Featured Route For South Early Winters Spire
Looking up at SEWS (left) and NEWS (right) from th...

Direct East Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  WA : Northwest Region : ... : South Early Winters Spire
Pitch 1: Rambling 5.6 pitch, go as far as you can until you see a reasonable tree to anchor off of. It was the usual alpine first pitch, some moss, loose rock, and vegetation. Reasonable gear along the way.Pitch 2: 5.8 crack system with various ledges that brings you to the bottom of the large dihedral. Although the pitch is called 5.8, I had a hard time finding the 5.8 move where we went, it felt a lot like 5.6. The pitch definitely had some loose “kitty litter” rock on it, which made things a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of South Early Winters Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Phil Gleason approaching South Early Winter Spire ...
Phil Gleason approaching South Early Winter Spire ...
North and South Early Winter Spires
BETA PHOTO: North and South Early Winter Spires
View from the summit of SEWS
View from the summit of SEWS
Climbing the South Arete
Climbing the South Arete
Another party descending the South Arete.
Another party descending the South Arete.

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