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Moro Rock (SEKI)
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South Cracks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Best in the fall.
Page Views: 769
Submitted By: Nathan W. on Aug 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Submitted by Dave Daly

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Description 

An alternative start to South Face(5.7+) that follows a series of cracks. After the third pitch, follow South Face the rest of the way up from the ledge before the south chimney(Jungle Ledge). There's one bolt at the end of pitch one.

Location 

Right before the start of South Face, when approached from the east gully.

Protection 

Standard Rack. One bolt.


Photos of South Cracks Slideshow Add Photo
The South Cracks start. Beautiful crack with littl...
The South Cracks start. Beautiful crack with littl...
Brian Sims taking off on Pitch 1. Next to pitch 5,...
Brian Sims taking off on Pitch 1. Next to pitch 5,...

Comments on South Cracks Add Comment
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By Chad Namolik
From: Sequoia N.P., CA
Sep 21, 2013

first pitch eats 0.75BD size cams.
By Paul F Rose
From: Atascadero
Oct 13, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

This is a very worthwhile entry into the South Face finish, first pitch goes from fingers to small hands with a short seam section pushing you onto face climbing. The second has less pro availability, but great exposure and requirement for cool.the third is mostly a contrived connection to the South face climb, but has a few nice moves trying to suck you into a corner.
By Sean P. Sullivan
From: Grover Beach, California
Mar 26, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Does anyone know if its possible to link P2&3 on this? We tried this a few months back and seemed to screw up the belay on pitch 2. We ended up sucked down and left into a corner that had webbing slung. I was thinking of just heading up around the corner and all the way to the big block below the jungle ledge. Any thoughts?
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