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 ADVANCED
South Cliffband

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acid Rain S 
Another Lichen Nightmare S 
Crackerjack T 
Crystal Suppository S 
Dreamscape T,TR 
Dynabolic S 
Finger in the Socket S 
Illusion Dissolution S 
Just Say No to Crack S 
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 
Prow, The S 
Rocket in My Pocket S 
Sanadine Dream S 
Shadowdancer S 
Unnamed S 

South Cliffband  


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 4, 2006
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Another beautiful day at Cochiti. Excellent condit...

Description 

This is the cliff section to the SE from the downclimb. With roughly 35 routes, this area offers numerous TR possibilities, and a wide diversity of climbing styles, from difficult thin slabs, to 5.13 cracks, to wild overhangs.

This cliff faces slightly more west than the other crags along the mesa, and so, stays in the shade a bit longer.

Getting There 

From the downclimb, head SE, or left. Some routes are approached from rappel from the mesa rim. For these routes, skip the downclimb and head SE along the rim trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.2 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',8],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Cliffband:
Just Say No to Crack   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   
Another Lichen Nightmare   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Dynabolic   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 70'   
The Prow   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Dreamscape   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Shadowdancer   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in South Cliffband

Featured Route For South Cliffband
Looking straight up at the dreamscape.

Dreamscape 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : South Cliffband
Climb the converging double cracks for about 15 feet. Both are splitter, and neither provide solid jams. After they converge, deal with the sustained tiny finger crack (crux) for about 25 feet. This crack is generally too small for fingers, but the offset faces provide lieback opportunities. The crack finally bends right and get steeper and wider as you reach slightly overhung hands jams to the progressively wider and steeper finish. Combining face and crack techniques is probably best for ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of South Cliffband Slideshow Add Photo
South Cliffband Overview
BETA PHOTO: South Cliffband Overview
A view from the South Cliffband (looking back at w...
A view from the South Cliffband (looking back at w...
Doug Couleur on the FA of Kids in Toyland (5.11c),...
Doug Couleur on the FA of Kids in Toyland (5.11c),...

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