Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Melvin Griffiths, Robert Ormes, 1934
Page Views: 4,111 total · 28/month
Shared By: S.Mckinna on Apr 27, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


11 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Chimney Rock is eye catching to anyone, especially a climber. I have a feeling this gets attempted way more than it gets done though. The approach is as tough as the climbing. Climb up fun and sometimes unprotectable cobble for 3 pitches. Then do an optional 4th pitch traverses to the summit, it's nice to have protection for a step across a chasm.

When heading to the start of the route, head toward the small summit on the ridge south of the peak, walk up steep unpleasantness. 5th class scrambling is unavoidable as you get closer to the top of the ridge. This isn't protectable and is kind of sketchy. Once on the ridge, traverse to the start of the chimney.

Pitch one climbs up a huge chockstone that has a belay on top.

Pitch 2 was the most sustained and had a bolt and cracks for a belay. I wish I did this next step: unrope and scramble up the chimney to where the rock steepens again.

Pitch 3 is a rope stretcher still but shouldn't be a problem from the new belay spot.

The fourth pitch was short and just helped a step/jump but probably isn't needed, unless you're me.

We did 3 double rope raps down the route. Then rappel from a tree to get down the 5th class lower on the approach.

Enjoy the adventure and be careful! Keep in mind that your belayer isn't going to enjoy rockfall.

Protection Suggest change

A light amount of stoppers and cams up to 4, lots of runners, and 2 60m ropes. I would bring a lot of webbing for rap anchors and also some new rings, I noticed that old rap stations had been hit by lightning melting the rings.

Per Marty Stevens: a set of Big Bros protect pretty well for the spaces in between the cobbles. 

Photos

loading