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South Buttress

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South Buttress 


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Location: 41.33181, -72.95988 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,671
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 4, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Climbing Areas Map, West Rock Ridge State Park

Description 

The South End hosts the majority of the recent development at West Rock SP with some very classy off angle traditional, mixed, and sport multi-pitch routes. The fixed protection can be spaced on easier sections of climbs and there may be some run-outs. Be VERY careful of loose rock, a lot has been done to clean the routes but this is still a major issue in this area -

ALWAYS WEAR YOUR HELMET HERE!

A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR SOME BALLFIELD ROUTES!


Getting There 

Hike up from field, along path uphill and right. Follow trail back left along base of cliff for 100 or so feet to the climbers trail heading up right to the 4th class scramble.


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Buttress:
Nickle And Dime   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Ballfield Slabs
30 Seconds to All Night   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Ballfield Slabs
West Rock Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Ballfield Slabs
Browse More Classics in South Buttress

Featured Route For South Buttress
The obvious crack.

West Rock Crack 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  CT : Southwest : ... : Ballfield Slabs
The FINEST legal CRACK in New Haven. Start on the deck and fire the crack (Ball Nuts/micro placements/stacked nutz) straight through to the top. When the crack fades work some moves over/up to the anchor. Originally, ATX Aid Crack. Easier Variation: Known as the 10 Crack is the obvious beautiful crack that splits the large slab face to the right of That 70's Show. From the ledge, stand on the block to the left and work right into the crack several feet off the deck....[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Comments on South Buttress Add Comment
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By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 7, 2014

Watch out for poison ivy, too!!! It's everywhere. I grew up here in the 60s and 70s and the scabs have just cleared up recently...LOL.

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 8, 2014

Man you got that right Peter. If you're schwackin you'll be scratchin'.