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South Buttress

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South Buttress  


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Location: 41.33181, -72.95988 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,072
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 4, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Climbing Areas Map, West Rock Ridge State Park

Description 

The South End hosts the majority of the recent development at West Rock SP with some very classy off angle traditional, mixed, and multi-pitch routes. The fixed protection can be spaced on easier sections of climbs and there may be some run-outs. Be VERY careful of loose rock, a lot has been done to clean the routes but this is still a major issue in this area.

THESE ARE NOT YOUR TYPICAL SPORT ROUTES. THESE ROUTES CAN BE DANGEROUS! BOLT SPACING CAN BE SPARSE DUE TO LACK OF SOLID ROCK. AN UNEXPECTED FALL COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. THIS IS NOT A SPORT CRAG. THERE IS A SIGNIFICANT RISK OF BLOCKS DISLODGING AND A POTENTIAL FOR FIXED GEAR TO FAIL.

ALWAYS WEAR YOUR HELMET HERE!

A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR SOME BALLFIELD ROUTES!

Getting There 

Hike up from field, along path uphill and right. Follow trail back left along base of cliff for 100 or so feet to the climbers trail heading up right to the 4th class scramble.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

27 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',4],['5.11',8],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Buttress:
Big Gay Al's Supercrack of the Slum   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Ball Field Slabs
Tax Evasion Haven   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
Nickel And Dime   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Ball Field Slabs
That 70 Show   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Ball Field Slabs
Crackrock Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
Devil's Cut   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
30 Seconds to All Night   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Ball Field Slabs
The People's Rock   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 55'   Old Quarry Walls
The Tree of Life   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Old Quarry Walls
West Rock Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Ball Field Slabs
Winning and Losing   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Old Quarry Walls
Browse More Classics in South Buttress

Featured Route For South Buttress
The obvious crack.

West Rock Crack 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  CT : Western Coastal Slope : ... : Ball Field Slabs
The FINEST legal CRACK in New Haven. Start on the deck and fire the crack (Ball Nuts/micro placements/stacked nutz) straight through to the top. When the crack fades work some moves over/up to the anchor. Originally, ATX Aid Crack. Easier Variation: Known as the 10 Crack is the obvious beautiful crack that splits the large slab face to the right of That 70's Show. From the ledge, stand on the block to the left and work right into the crack several feet off the deck....[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Comments on South Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 7, 2014
Watch out for poison ivy, too!!! It's everywhere. I grew up here in the 60s and 70s and the scabs have just cleared up recently...LOL.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 8, 2014
Man you got that right Peter. If you're schwackin you'll be scratchin'.
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