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South Buttress

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South Buttress  


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Location: 41.33181, -72.95988 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,854
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 4, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Climbing Areas Map, West Rock Ridge State Park

Description 

The South End hosts the majority of the recent development at West Rock SP with some very classy off angle traditional, mixed, and sport multi-pitch routes. The fixed protection can be spaced on easier sections of climbs and there may be some run-outs. Be VERY careful of loose rock, a lot has been done to clean the routes but this is still a major issue in this area -

ALWAYS WEAR YOUR HELMET HERE!

A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR SOME BALLFIELD ROUTES!

Getting There 

Hike up from field, along path uphill and right. Follow trail back left along base of cliff for 100 or so feet to the climbers trail heading up right to the 4th class scramble.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Buttress:
Tax Evasion Haven   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
Crackrock Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
Nickle And Dime   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Ballfield Slabs
Devil's Cut   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Old Quarry Walls
30 Seconds to All Night   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Ballfield Slabs
West Rock Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Ballfield Slabs
Browse More Classics in South Buttress

Featured Route For South Buttress
Crackrock Corner

Crackrock Corner 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CT : Western Coastal Slope : ... : Old Quarry Walls
This route is really a unique gem in CT and reminds me very much of Fly'in Hawiian up at Rumney. Starting in the corner work your way up past 6 bolts to the large overlap. Once over the overlap climb past 3 bolts to an anchor out right (easier climbing). It climbs three ways, a chimney grunt, a corner jam, or true stemming masterpiece. You can tell which I prefer ;-)...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Comments on South Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 7, 2014
Watch out for poison ivy, too!!! It's everywhere. I grew up here in the 60s and 70s and the scabs have just cleared up recently...LOL.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 8, 2014
Man you got that right Peter. If you're schwackin you'll be scratchin'.