All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > Truckee River C… > Big Chief Area

South Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in South Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	7-11 Burrito S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Community Service S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Junk Food Junkie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sugar Fix S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Elevation:	6,986 ft
GPS:	39.2421, -120.20127 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,288 total · 22/month
Shared By:	Aron Quiter on May 16, 2004
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The furthest rock to the South at Big Chief is known as the South Buttress, and it contains roughly 15 climbs from 5.9 to hard 5.12.Most of the rock on South Buttress is excellent, though unlike most other cliffs at Big Chief, you will find some loose rock in spots.

The bolted routes are varied, some are overhung, others contain large sections of slab. Bring a few slimgs along, as routes that move over bulges often have bolts that wander a little.

Getting There

Approach time: 25 - 40 minutes.

From the parking lot, head down the main path to the west, which consists of a former gravel road that has large trees cast through the center of it at the parking lot to ensure that people can no longer drive to the former lot.

After .6 miles of gentle dirt road, you will come to the former lot. From here head uphill for about 50 vertical feet on the narrowing trail to a fork. At the fork, you should head right, and this will take you up to the north pass.

From the north pass, hang a left around the rock, and this will take you into the center wall area. Go past the Center Wall to the South Wall, and from where the South Wall ends continue 200 yards accross the hillside to the South Buttress, which doesn't look like much from the trail.

There is another approach / exit trail that takes you more directly to the South Buttress the splits of the trail to the north pass and goes over the south pass, but this trail isn't as established, involves a bit of bushwacking, and doesn't realistically save much (if any) time.

To take this trail, from the old parking lot look for a trail moving up the hill and left heading to the south pass. This trail will pass the backside climbs, and puts you on the summit between the South Cave (on your right) and the South Buttress on your left.