BETA PHOTO: This shows the upper part of the east face of the ...
Description
I labeled this the South Buttress, but if anyone knows a different name, please let me know. This is basically the rock formation that lies to the south of the Pinnacle. There are a couple traditional routes on the east face of this buttress, and there is some opportunity for bolted routes on the east and north faces. The rock type and quality is similar to other rock low in the canyon, with some solid granite but also some loose and decomposing granite.
Getting There
Park just below the east face (from here you can look up and see the Sun Slabs on the east face of the Pinnacle). Cross over the gated bridge and head straight up to the South Buttress. Approach will only take about 10 minutes.
I'm not sure the name of this route, or who first climbed it, so if anyone has information, please let me know. I'm assuming maybe FA by Harvey Carter or army climbers in the '50s or '60s.The bottom half of the route is a fun climb on good quality rock up a polished water gully. It's mostly easy at the bottom, with good gear, then passes a few pitons and an old bolt as it climbs through a steeper section with some off-width.Once above this, move up and slightly right to gain a left-facing, han...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
By Drew Kelly From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 18, 2012
Is this the area up the steep scree gully immediately south of the Pinnacle? There is a North-facing wall there with about 7 newly bolted climbs that aren't listed. All protection is bomber, I think they all have 2-bolt anchors. Approach is tiring--about a 10 minute steep hike up a gully that you can get to by going to the base of the Sun Slab area and following that all the way up to the top of the mountain. Can also get there from walking straight up from parking for the Pinnacle. There is a vague path.