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 ADVANCED
South Astro Dome - Northeast Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bleed Between the Lines TR 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Crimping Lessons S 
Mamunia S 
Middle Age Crazy T 
Middle Age Crisis S 
Middle Age Savage T 
My Laundry T 
Piggle Pugg T 
Shooting Star T 
Solid Gold T 
Such a Savage T 
Such a Waste TR 
Walking Pneumonia T 

South Astro Dome - Northeast Face  


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Location: 34.03858, -116.14713 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 17,734
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Dec 27, 2009
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Darin leading the 2nd pitch. April, 2006.

Description 

The Northeast Face is literally packed with multi-star routes and as such is very popular with climbers throughout the season. The routes here range from 5.8+ to 5.13a (most are 5.10 and up) and vary from one to two pitches in length with mostly face climbs and the odd crack route. Descent is usually made via rappel from one of several anchors atop the formation.

Some of the better lines here include Breakfast of Champions (5.8+), Solid Gold (5.10a), Piggle Pugg (5.10c), Such a Savage (5.11a R), Stone Idol (5.12a R) and Middle Age Savage (5.12a/b).

Routes from left to right:

Mamunia (5.13a)
Stone Idol (5.12a R)
Bolt Heaven (aka Dry Cleaning) (5.10b A0)
My Laundry (5.9)
Crimping Lessons (5.11b)
Bleed Between the Lines (5.10d TR)
Solid Gold (5.10a)
Middle Age Crisis (5.11b)
Middle Age Crazy (5.11c/d)
Shooting Star (5.11a R/X)
Middle Age Savage (5.12a/b)
Such a Savage (5.11a R)
Such a Waste (5.11b/c TR)
Walking Pneumonia (5.11b R/X)
Breakfast of Champions (5.8+)
The Boogie Woogie Blues (5.11c R)
Piggle Pugg (5.10c)

Getting There 

See The Astro Domes page for detailed approach information.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.3 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',7],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Astro Dome - Northeast Face:
Breakfast of Champions   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
My Laundry   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Solid Gold   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Piggle Pugg   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Such a Savage   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Middle Age Crisis   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Middle Age Crazy   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Browse More Classics in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face

Featured Route For South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
Grace under pressure on Pitch 1 - Climber: Scott Nomi.

Solid Gold 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : South Astro Dome - Northeas...
What a great route! This classic route takes a magnificent line up the northeast face of the South Astro Dome in two great pitches. Well worth the thirty minute walk and potential wait if others are already on it. Be advised that this wall can be extremely cold in the winter months.Start down and right from the highpoint of some blocks stacked against the face (roughly 75') at a prominent gold streak. P1) Climb the steep gold streak past 6 bolts and many sharp edges to a belay on a ledge ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of South Astro Dome - Northeast Face Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching the end of pitch 1 of Solid Gold belayed from the new two-bolt anchor of the route between SG & My Laundry.
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the end of pitch 1 of Solid Gold belay...
Birds faeces cover the Solid Gold tiny holds so a wire brush is essential.
BETA PHOTO: Birds faeces cover the Solid Gold tiny holds so a ...
Note the heaps of bird droppings which cover the 2nd pitches as far up as the blue arrows indicate. From the pic it might not seem so bad, but honestly, I love birds, but this was disgusting! It prevented us from finishing via My Laundry. <br />Red arrow: 1st bolt of the 2nd pitch of Solid Gold to be clipped after the bit scary move onto the left ascending friction.
BETA PHOTO: Note the heaps of bird droppings which cover the 2...

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