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South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bleed Between the Lines 
Breakfast of Champions 
Crimping Lessons 
Mamunia 
Middle Age Crazy 
Middle Age Crisis 
Middle Age Savage 
My Laundry 
Piggle Pugg 
Shooting Star 
Solid Gold 
Such a Savage 
Such a Waste 
Walking Pneumonia 

South Astro Dome - Northeast Face 


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Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: C Miller on Dec 27, 2009

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Darin leading the 2nd pitch. April, 2006.

Description 

The Northeast Face is literally packed with multi-star routes and as such is very popular with climbers throughout the season. The routes here range from 5.8+ to 5.13a (most are 5.10 and up) and vary from one to two pitches in length with mostly face climbs and the odd crack route. Descent is usually made via rappel from one of several anchors atop the formation.

Some of the better lines here include Breakfast of Champions (5.8+), Solid Gold (5.10a), Piggle Pugg (5.10c), Such a Savage (5.11a R), Stone Idol (5.12a R) and Middle Age Savage (5.12a/b).

Routes from left to right:

Mamunia (5.13a)
Stone Idol (5.12a R)
Bolt Heaven (aka Dry Cleaning) (5.10b A0)
My Laundry (5.9)
Crimping Lessons (5.11b)
Bleed Between the Lines (5.10d TR)
Solid Gold (5.10a)
Middle Age Crisis (5.11b)
Middle Age Crazy (5.11c/d)
Shooting Star (5.11a R/X)
Middle Age Savage (5.12a/b)
Such a Savage (5.11a R)
Such a Waste (5.11b/c TR)
Walking Pneumonia (5.11b R/X)
Breakfast of Champions (5.8+)
The Boogie Woogie Blues (5.11c R)
Piggle Pugg (5.10c)


Getting There 

See The Astro Domes page for detailed approach information.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Astro Dome - Northeast Face:
Breakfast of Champions   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   
My Laundry   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   
Solid Gold   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Piggle Pugg   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Such a Savage   5.11a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   
Middle Age Crazy   5.11c/d     Trad, 1 pitch, 190 feet   
Browse More Classics in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face

Featured Route For South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
Brian Smith is cruising after making the run to the first bolt.

Such a Savage 5.11a R  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : South Astro Dome - Northeas...
Yet another of the classic face routes on the Astro Domes, this one is memorable for a stiff runout to the first bolt as well as the steep, well-protected face climbing higher. P1) Climb about 20' of insecure 5.10 friction above the talus to a bolt, run it out again to a second bolt (this feels much easier) and continue to a ledge above which the wall steepens to vertical. Four more bolts along a bolt ladder (some clips are awkward) take you to a bolted belay. P2) Leave the belay and climb feat...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of South Astro Dome - Northeast Face Slideshow Add Photo
Birds faeces cover the Solid Gold tiny holds so a wire brush is essential.

BETA PHOTO: Birds faeces cover the Solid Gold tiny holds so a ...

Approaching the end of pitch 1 of Solid Gold belayed from the new two-bolt anchor of the route between SG & My Laundry.

BETA PHOTO: Approaching the end of pitch 1 of Solid Gold belay...

Note the heaps of bird droppings which cover the 2nd pitches as far up as the blue arrows indicate. From the pic it might not seem so bad, but honestly, I love birds, but this was disgusting! It prevented us from finishing via My Laundry. <br />Red arrow: 1st bolt of the 2nd pitch of Solid Gold to be clipped after the bit scary move onto the left ascending friction.

BETA PHOTO: Note the heaps of bird droppings which cover the 2...