South Arete  5.7 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  T. Bubb, J. Haas, 09/06 New Route:  Yes Season:  Autumn Submitted By:  Tony B on Sep 17, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Jason Haas follows on the F.A. of the South Arete ...

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa Details. In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

This climb is a decent one to do if you want an easy route in the area. Distance between good pieces might make it less then ideal for a beginning leader, however.

Start as for the S. Face and as soon as possible, traverse rightward onto a ledge to gain the Arete to the right (south). One can move back in from the arete to sling a tree if the runout is uncomfortably troublesome, then move back out. Climb the arete to the top with occasional protection and belay in a big dish up top wth 2-3" cams.

Descend by scrambling to (5.6, PG-13) and rapping the anchors above the Unknown 5.10b Sport Route (95' rap).

Location 

Just right of the South Face route, and starting on that to traverse right to the arete just south of the corner.

Protection 

A standard rack to #3 Camalot + a 4' sling for a mid-route tree (optional).

Photos of South Arete Slideshow

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Jason Haas approaches the summit of the South Aret...