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The Goose
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete T 
Batman S 
Big Bruce S 
Deserted Cities of the Heart S 
Duck, Duck, Goose T 
East Face / Goose T 
Golden Goat S 
Loosey Goosey T 
Love's Labor Lost S 
Mother Goose T 
Raging Bull (aka Cub) S 
South Arete T 
South Face T 
Sweet and Innocent T 

South Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: T. Bubb, J. Haas, 09/06
New Route: Yes
Season: Autumn
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 17, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Jason Haas follows on the F.A. of the South Arete ...

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  • Description 

    This climb is a decent one to do if you want an easy route in the area. Distance between good pieces might make it less then ideal for a beginning leader, however.

    Start as for the S. Face and as soon as possible, traverse rightward onto a ledge to gain the Arete to the right (south). One can move back in from the arete to sling a tree if the runout is uncomfortably troublesome, then move back out. Climb the arete to the top with occasional protection and belay in a big dish up top wth 2-3" cams.

    Descend by scrambling to (5.6, PG-13) and rapping the anchors above the Unknown 5.10b Sport Route (95' rap).


    Just right of the South Face route, and starting on that to traverse right to the arete just south of the corner.


    A standard rack to #3 Camalot + a 4' sling for a mid-route tree (optional).

    Photos of South Arete Slideshow Add Photo
    Jason Haas approaches the summit of the South Aret...
    Jason Haas approaches the summit of the South Aret...

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