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BETA PHOTO: Jason Haas follows on the F.A. of the South Arete ...
This climb is a decent one to do if you want an easy route in the area. Distance between good pieces might make it less then ideal for a beginning leader, however.
Start as for the S. Face and as soon as possible, traverse rightward onto a ledge to gain the Arete to the right (south). One can move back in from the arete to sling a tree if the runout is uncomfortably troublesome, then move back out. Climb the arete to the top with occasional protection and belay in a big dish up top wth 2-3" cams.
Descend by scrambling to (5.6, PG-13) and rapping the anchors above the Unknown 5.10b Sport Route
Just right of the South Face route, and starting on that to traverse right to the arete just south of the corner.
A standard rack to #3 Camalot + a 4' sling for a mid-route tree (optional).
Jason Haas approaches the summit of the South Aret...