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South and East Faces

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Cracker Land T 
Best Crack in Minnesota T 
Bon Homme Variation T 
Cave T 
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 
Direct Southeast T 
Double Indemnity T 
Dusk In Dogtown T 
El Cracko Diablo T 
Extension T 
Free Association T 
Hollywood & Vine T 
interesting problem below, The T 
Let Me Go Wild T 
Roach Addition T,S 
Rocksuckers S 
Soler T 
Soler Eclipse S 
Space Ranger T 
TAD T 
Walt Bailey T 
Windex T 
Window (Free), The T 
Unsorted Routes:

South and East Faces  


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Page Views: 127,853
Administrators: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 6, 2002
Forecast:
Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
Snow Showers
34° | 22°
Snow Showers
30° | 28°
Partly Cloudy
47° | 36°
Partly Cloudy
46° | 24°
Overcast
29° | 10°
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Description 

The South and East Faces both share the same approach. The South and East face routes are very popular, perhaps because they end up at the meadows. Once at the meadows, it is easy to top out. The most climbed routes on the tower (besides Durrance) are on the East face, including Soler and Tad. The South face also holds some popular routes, including Bon Homme Variation and Walt Bailey. Most routes are 2 long pitches to the meadows, with Walt Bailey being only one pitch. Rappel off the meadows chain anchors with two ropes for 3 rappels to reach the ground. Also, some routes have their own set of rap anchors.

Getting There 

From the Devil's Tower parking lot, take the paved trail towards the tower. Take a right when the trail forks, and follow this trail around towards the south face. Look for a climber's trail taking off up towards the tower when you see a viewing tube (for looking at the old wooden ladder near Bon Homme). Follow this good trail up to some slabs near Durrance, then climb up and to the right, following the slabs around the tower. From here, it depends which route you are doing as to how far to go. Some of these approach rocks are really slick, so be careful with heavy loads.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.5 miles from here

23 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',3],['5.11',6],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South and East Faces:
Bon Homme Variation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
El Cracko Diablo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Soler   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 280'   
Walt Bailey   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Cave   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Dusk In Dogtown   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Hollywood & Vine   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 270'   
Double Indemnity   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 130'   
Soler Eclipse   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Rocksuckers   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 160'   
Direct Southeast   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
Animal Cracker Land   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Browse More Classics in South and East Faces

Featured Route For South and East Faces
Schwartz, afraid of whats to come...

Let Me Go Wild 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces
This is the pitch above Dusk in Dogtown. Face climbing and stemming with the occasional sloping tip lock thrown in for good measure. Mostly 5.11 with good stances and actual edges for feet, crux is thin and well protected....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of South and East Faces Slideshow Add Photo
Approach hike.
Approach hike.
Summer evening
Summer evening

Comments on South and East Faces Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 9, 2002
This approach is generally known as The Ramp. It can be very frightening when wet or icy in places - especially going up to Bon Homme or around past the Soler/TAD area.

The best descent route is the Meadows rappel. The Bon Homme rappels have some scary downclimbing and the Durrance rappels are almost always cloged with people climbing up. Be careful of rope eating cracks when pulling rap lines.
By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Jul 11, 2002
I have heard this area described as the "bowling alley". Many routes, and the most popular rappel all funnel into the same small area. I have seen a climber incapacitated by rockfall when this area was hoppin'. A brain bucket is not a bad idea here.
By Joe Dawson
Jun 1, 2009
This approach has a couple of exposed 4th class moves on it. If you are not comfortable with that, I would rope up for it.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 13, 2010
The Meadows rappel route can be done from the summit with a 70M. There is about 3ft to spare on each rappel except for the last one that ends at the beginning of the ramp. You will need to down climb about 5ft from a good stance.

Don't get your ropes stuck! Self rescue with a single rope might be a difficult.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Oct 21, 2014
I would say that the best descent route for this zone (possibly for the whole DeTow) is the Exit Us rap. This is the rap that starts with the two-bolt anchor on top of Cracko Diablo. With about 10' of 4th class downclimbing, a 70m double-rope rappel will reach the ledge at the base of Soler/TAD/Cracko. Watch your ends!

Alternatively, you can take one 70m rope and hit all the stations, getting back to the ledge in 3 or 4 raps.

IMO this area offers the least potential for getting ropes stuck, but pay attention to those below you. Cracko Diablo often has people on it.