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South and East Faces

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Cracker Land T 
Best Crack in Minnesota T 
Bon Homme Variation T 
Cave T 
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 
Direct Southeast T 
Double Indemnity T 
Dusk In Dogtown T 
El Cracko Diablo T 
Extension T 
Free Association T 
Hollywood & Vine T 
interesting problem below, The T 
Let Me Go Wild T 
Roach Addition T,S 
Rocksuckers S 
Soler T 
Soler Eclipse S 
Space Ranger T 
Walt Bailey T 
Windex T 
Window (Free), The T 
Unsorted Routes:

South and East Faces  

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Administrators: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 6, 2002
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60° | 39°
70° | 48°
79° | 53°
84° | 59°
88° | 59°
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The South and East Faces both share the same approach. The South and East face routes are very popular, perhaps because they end up at the meadows. Once at the meadows, it is easy to top out. The most climbed routes on the tower (besides Durrance) are on the East face, including Soler and Tad. The South face also holds some popular routes, including Bon Homme Variation and Walt Bailey. Most routes are 2 long pitches to the meadows, with Walt Bailey being only one pitch. Rappel off the meadows chain anchors with two ropes for 3 rappels to reach the ground. Also, some routes have their own set of rap anchors.

Getting There 

From the Devil's Tower parking lot, take the paved trail towards the tower. Take a right when the trail forks, and follow this trail around towards the south face. Look for a climber's trail taking off up towards the tower when you see a viewing tube (for looking at the old wooden ladder near Bon Homme). Follow this good trail up to some slabs near Durrance, then climb up and to the right, following the slabs around the tower. From here, it depends which route you are doing as to how far to go. Some of these approach rocks are really slick, so be careful with heavy loads.

Climbing Season

23 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South and East Faces:
Bon Homme Variation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
El Cracko Diablo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Soler   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 280'   
Walt Bailey   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Cave   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Dusk In Dogtown   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Hollywood & Vine   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 270'   
Double Indemnity   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 130'   
Soler Eclipse   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Rocksuckers   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 160'   
Direct Southeast   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
Animal Cracker Land   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Browse More Classics in South and East Faces

Featured Route For South and East Faces
The climber is at the traverse.  Delicate face moves are made from the wide Bon Homme on the right to a narrow variation crack on the left.

Bon Homme Variation 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces
Bon Homme Variation is a separate and unique climb from Bon Homme. It shares only the start. Follow the ramp to the area of the old ladder. Bon Homme is about four cracks to the left of the ladder. Pitch 1: Climb the start of the wide Bon Homme crack. Climb past a chockstone, and then look for a traverse to the left. Face climb across the column when obvious, and get into the next crack over. Then follow this crack system (double cracks) up to a huge ledge. When I did this, I climbed th...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Local Information for South and East Faces
Photos of South and East Faces Slideshow Add Photo
Approach hike.
Approach hike.
Summer evening
Summer evening

Comments on South and East Faces Add Comment
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By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 9, 2002
This approach is generally known as The Ramp. It can be very frightening when wet or icy in places - especially going up to Bon Homme or around past the Soler/TAD area.

The best descent route is the Meadows rappel. The Bon Homme rappels have some scary downclimbing and the Durrance rappels are almost always cloged with people climbing up. Be careful of rope eating cracks when pulling rap lines.
By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Jul 11, 2002
I have heard this area described as the "bowling alley". Many routes, and the most popular rappel all funnel into the same small area. I have seen a climber incapacitated by rockfall when this area was hoppin'. A brain bucket is not a bad idea here.
By Joe Dawson
Jun 1, 2009
This approach has a couple of exposed 4th class moves on it. If you are not comfortable with that, I would rope up for it.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 13, 2010
The Meadows rappel route can be done from the summit with a 70M. There is about 3ft to spare on each rappel except for the last one that ends at the beginning of the ramp. You will need to down climb about 5ft from a good stance.

Don't get your ropes stuck! Self rescue with a single rope might be a difficult.