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The South and East Faces both share the same approach. The South and East face routes are very popular, perhaps because they end up at the meadows. Once at the meadows, it is easy to top out. The most climbed routes on the tower (besides Durrance) are on the East face, including Soler and Tad. The South face also holds some popular routes, including Bon Homme Variation and Walt Bailey. Most routes are 2 long pitches to the meadows, with Walt Bailey being only one pitch. Rappel off the meadows chain anchors with two ropes for 3 rappels to reach the ground. Also, some routes have their own set of rap anchors.
From the Devil's Tower parking lot, take the paved trail towards the tower. Take a right when the trail forks, and follow this trail around towards the south face. Look for a climber's trail taking off up towards the tower when you see a viewing tube (for looking at the old wooden ladder near Bon Homme). Follow this good trail up to some slabs near Durrance, then climb up and to the right, following the slabs around the tower. From here, it depends which route you are doing as to how far to go. Some of these approach rocks are really slick, so be careful with heavy loads.
23 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in South and East Faces
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South and East Faces:
Bon Homme Variation 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
El Cracko Diablo 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches
Soler 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 280'
Walt Bailey 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Cave 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Dusk In Dogtown 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Hollywood & Vine 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 270'
Double Indemnity 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 130'
Soler Eclipse 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Rocksuckers 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 160'
Direct Southeast 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Animal Cracker Land 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For South and East Faces
Windex 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b A3 WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces
I couldn't believe this route hadn't been done. Working as a guide out there during the summer of '05, I spotted this line and climbed it on an unseasonably cool July day. This is just another classic obvious plumb line to the top. This route took about 10 hours and included lots of tricky aid placements; beaks, hooks, shallow tied-off and equalized pins, and some creativity throughout the entire first 2 pitches, and then finishes with a 5.6 chimney. I never did fall on the route, thou...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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