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By Tony Mayse
Oct 22, 2010
The pro is nill?? What?
Climb the first two bolts of Amazon Woman then tread to the right on 5.10 climbing to a bolt that protects the first crux of LA Woman. From here, either move up straight above the bolt to a mantle move or step right for the "original" FA move going up a rib to another mantle, this move creates a pendulum swing should you fall. I have fallen from this move, not bad at all. The "Direct" move straight above the bolt is awesome and well protected, you are making all the hard moves with the bolt just below your feet.(put a locker on it).
The "Shield" (second crux) has a bolt right where you want it which is directly in front of you while you're making the move. After smearing up the "Shield" there is a runout of 30' to the anchors. The climbing here is not hard (less than 5.10), just keep your head together.
The thing about climbing 5.11 at Quartz is that you cannot be a 5.11 leader and be comfortable leading Quartz 5.11's. If you are at your max on 5.11 then you will more than likely be terrified leading runout 5.11 in my opinion.
Get some Quartz climbing under your belt, learn how to be calm on runout climbing and the rest is pure fun.
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