Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Shagg Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agro Shagg 
Block Buster 
Cell Block D 
Continental Divide 
Cut Split and Delivered 
Death to the Queen 
Deja Voodoo 
Diesel Bob 
Fat Bastard 
Fat Pig 
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers  
Ginseng Route 
Great Escape, The 
Grimas De Oro 
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy 
Kick to the Teeth 
Late for Dinner 
Long and Short of It, The 
Looney Tunes 
Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy 
Nice Tooth 
Patches the Clown 
Pushes Little Daisies 
Raging Bull, The 
Recombinant DNA 
Rhino Flake 
Ritual , The 
Rough Rhino 
Screw It 
Shagg It  
Shagg Zag 
Shaggin Wagon 
Short Bob 
Short Shagg 
Sour Diesel 
Standard Route 
Summer Smoke 
Two Shaved Heads 
Unknown Name 
Velvet Elvis 
What About Bob? 
What About Bobcat 
When the fat lady sings 
Zagg Shagg 
Unsorted Routes:

Sour Diesel 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Bill Morse
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 877
Submitted By: Bill Morse on Jul 19, 2011
Good Page? 1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Climb Diesel, but rather than finishing at the 10 anchor climb right to the rest ledge of What About Bob and finish up the left leaning dihedral of of the original What About Bob. Seeing as how Diesel climbs WAY better than it looks, it has always been marred only by its short length. The original What About Bob finish, originally rated 12d????, lay unrepeated for years after only two assents by Jim Ewing and Luke Parady. The cryptically hard sequence left many a hard man shaking their head as they lowered off completely stymied. Finally unlocked over ten years later by Chris "The Deulenator" Deulen, the Bob finish appropriately caps Diesel with a feel through the upper dihedral reminiscent of perhaps the sierras more than Shagg and makes it totally full-value and way more rad. Even with the rest ledge it adds considerable difficulty to Diesel and greatly solidifies the 13d grade.


12 Bolts to fixed anchors

Comments on Sour Diesel Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Morse
Jul 19, 2011

May want to clip the 3rd bolt on the 9 as the first so that the belayer can stand back far enough to see the climber up on the upper section.

By Rajiv Ayyangar
From: Portland, ME
Jul 20, 2011

Inspiring send, Bill!

By corson
From: Northport, Me.
Jul 20, 2011

Damnnnnn,Bill. Nice. Give me a shout brother, Im takin this year off.

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Jan 8, 2012

Welcome to MP my friend! And kicking it off in style!

By Bill Morse
Aug 12, 2012

Vin Diesel does the Bob start into Diesel rather than the 9. Another notch harder, but still very much 13d in my opinion.