Type: Trad
FA: M. Brooks, 1981
Page Views: 1,245 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Approach as for the Potato Chip. Once at the knifeblade SW edge of the Potato Chip, look ~ 60 feet left to an obvious right-facing crack system that curves upward and though a small dihedral before kicking back to a lower angle and running past a 2' tall tree and up a dirty crack. Climb up great rock through some really beautiful moves. I actually got 2 no-hands rests from knee locks in the acute overhanging dihedral. After about 50' of climbing the off-fingers crack passed an overhanging section and transitioned to a low-angle, and somewhat loose/dirty system that keeps this climb from being 2**. Too bad.

This pitch protects as weel as you could ask for. Go do it when you are up there.

To descend, walk north past 2 false summit blocks (1 visible, then 1 hidden block). From the third black, cut back hard left (S/SW) to a pine tree and walk/scramble down the ridge to the trail near the base again. This takes ~ 2 minutes.

Protection Suggest change

One full set of cams, from .5" to 3" Lowe Tricams and stoppers are also useful, but not needed.

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