Soup to Nuts
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Not a bad obscure route (that hasn't seen too many repeats) but not a classic either. The rock is a little brittle but the holds you need seem solid (the crux hold is reinforced with glue I think). The best thing about the route is the exposure of the upper wall as the pitch starts 100+ feet off the ground.
Pitch one: 5.7 Climb the first pitch of Rock Du Jours Direct to the two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: Follow eye bolts up and right to a steep bulge. Hand traverse up and right along a ledge beneath the bulge to a good clipping hold and a really big deadpoint to a pretty good hold (crimp). Body tension, footwork, and hard crimping will get you through the moves between crimps straight up about 20 feet to a rest and on to the anchor of Rock Du Jours. The technical crimping was my favorite part but if you like hard deadpointing you will love the crux.
Up the vegetated corner at the right end of Main Cliff's Iron Man wall.. You will break left and up the wall past eye bolts to an anchor. The crux pitch use the first bolt or 2 of Rock Du Jours Direct but trending more right then heads up over the steep bulge.
Eye bolts to the same anchor as Rock Du Jours. On the crux pitch I clipped 9 bolts and back cleaned one (2nd) to reduce potential drag. There are quick clips at the top.
jeff, action hero
peeking around the corner...
moving in to the tough stuff
jeff just after the big throw move
jeff... get ready to TOSS!
jeff gets tied in for a redpoint attempt...
Jun 23, 2013
Around a week ago a friend of mine broke off the key crux hold. This was the hold that had some glue behind it and I think that the route will be much harder now.
| || |This is the hold which broke off
Submitted By: Timmijal on Jun 23, 2013
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Jun 24, 2013
Don't feel bad. I was always a little bummed about the ugliness of that glued hold. I should probably figure out how to chop those bolts and patch them. I doubt the route would go without the hold and if it did it would be a nasty hard one move wonder that nobody will ever do. One thing I have learned is that it seems no matter how carefully you do it, almost every glued hold eventually ends up popping off anyway, so I have become much more circumspect about gluing stuff.
|By Jeffrey LeCours|
From: New Hampshire
Jun 24, 2013
Nooo!!! :'( And on to the list of routes I'll have to try harder on :)
The hold I'm going to here?