Super Soul Slab
|Type: ||Sport, 3 pitches, 210'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Matt Myers, P.2 FFA Aaron lawrence. P.3 FFA Carlos Baron|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||863|
|Submitted By: ||MattMyers on Mar 3, 2013|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Sara finishing her onsight of P1&2 link-up!
A very fun climb and great for practicing your slab skills. Start at the base of the slab to the right of Eco-challenge area. This is a Slab climb so stay away from the chossy corner.
P.1 5.7 Steep start to high quality slab with a tricky bulge up high, staying right is recommended 100' 9 bolts Chain anchor.
P.2 5.8 Fun slab to high quality face with several different options, Take a right at the top to a comfy belay ledge with two 2 bolt anchors. 8 bolts 60'. You can link P.1 and P.2 for 155' of fun, 19 draws.
P.3 5.9 Climb the face just right of the arching dihedral, head strait up at the end with a crux finale. 50' 9 bolts, bolted anchor. Anchors to the right belong to BFF and LOL, 100' to the middle tier belay anchors. A rope stretcher so be safe.
At the P.3 Anchor, a great option is to clip and pass the anchor to a big belay ledge with a two bolt anchor. Continue on I Cant Remember or Call it what you want. The fixed line that leads to sidewalk ledge so there are lots of link up options.
The long slab to the right of the Eco Challenge area.
Fully bolted, can be enjoyed with a 60m Rope and 10 Quick Draws.
BETA PHOTO: Soul Slab (5.8), Frustration Creek
Sam on the 2nd ascent!
Matt on the FA!
Sizing up the first crux of Soul Slab (5.8), Frust...
Nathan at the upper crux of Soul Slab (5.8), Frust...
|Comments on Super Soul Slab
|By C Miller|
Mar 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
There seems to be two cruxes on this route - the 1st passing the first bolt and the 2nd crux at the fourth bolt going over the small overlap. The grade may seem somewhat easier is you veer left at the first bolt but going straight up is harder and offers better moves.
A long, fun outing on quality stone and although still a bit dirty it will clean up nicely - good job guys!
Mar 21, 2013
The glued holds by the second bolt belong to Rabble Rouser. Ill give it another good sweep when i finish cleaning the second pitch which is going to be awesome and connect to bird ledge. Im glad to finish this line that I've wanted to do for years, Enjoy :)
Jun 18, 2013
Climbed this yesterday for the first time on 6/18. Fun route. Still a little dirty, but it should clean up nicely. Looking forward to a second pitch if/when an issue gets resolved.
3 star climb 0 stars for now because of the PO issue.
Problem: The poison oak has already regrown over the central ledge and you have to climb directly through it. (nasty surprise). The placement of the bolts makes it almost impossible to keep your rope out of the PO, so we actually had to skip bolts on the top section to keep our rope-line out of the plants. Rope still got some oil on the pull even though we were cautious (MEH!) Had to wash everything when we got home.(did I mention Meh?)
Recommend: totally clear that ledge and the left corner of PO if you don't want this to become a museum climb. Noticed some PO Round up spray on the upper tier afterwards. If we'd known about it we would have hauled it up there and done some spraying.
Kinda not worth the headache right now, but if you choose to climb this, bring long runners for before and after the ledge to keep the rope in a straight line through the narrow corridor between the plants. Be uber cautious pulling your rope.
From: Los Angeles, for now
Jun 19, 2013
I gave this route an "aviod" (bomb) because of the P.O. on the route. When and if this issue is resolved, I will change the rating to 3 stars.
|By Clint W.|
Oct 6, 2013
Just jammed through the second and third pitch on Super Soul Slab. Very cool link-up. Third pitch slab is super sweet. Can't wait to connect it to Cant Remember/ Call It What You Want. Great job!
Nov 17, 2013
A Fun link up is climb Super Soul Slab to I Cant Remember to P.5&6 of the Dead Terrorist for 440' of Fun!