Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Lance Hadfield?? |
Page Views: | 1,346 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Mar 21, 2011 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Closed to the Public for Sensitive Archaeological Resources
Details
The Forest Service issued a temporary closure of Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) to all public access in order to perform an archaeological survey. For all intents and purposes, this temporary closure order should be considered a *permanent* closure order.
Impacts to the cave's nationally significant archaeological resources are the major concern.
Impacts to the cave's nationally significant archaeological resources are the major concern.
Description
Start as for "Faith" in the back of the cave for the first 4 bolts. Where "Faith" breaks left continue up to the depths of the cave through easier ground and a great kneebar rest. Clip the 5th bolt and climb through some large huecos. A variety of crumbling holds, bat guano, and an opportunity to get the Hanta keeps this part interesting. From here use all kinds of trickery and core tension to gain the line of "Leper", this section is probably the crux. I also skipped what would be the 6th bolt.
Once on Leper pull the crux of that route and gain the break in the middle of the roof. Obtain a great rest, as you still have the crux of Dope to do, to exit the cave and clip the chains.
This route is given 12d/13a in the Jemez Rock guide, but I feel it is significantly harder. While it has more rests than other cave routes, there are more cruxes and the moves to join Leper are hard. In my opinion this route is harder than Dope and Leper, and very comparable in difficulty to Faith. So 13b seems like a good starting point. The movement is great, but the rock in the depths of the cave can be especially dirty and nasty if it hasn't been cleaned recently.
Once on Leper pull the crux of that route and gain the break in the middle of the roof. Obtain a great rest, as you still have the crux of Dope to do, to exit the cave and clip the chains.
This route is given 12d/13a in the Jemez Rock guide, but I feel it is significantly harder. While it has more rests than other cave routes, there are more cruxes and the moves to join Leper are hard. In my opinion this route is harder than Dope and Leper, and very comparable in difficulty to Faith. So 13b seems like a good starting point. The movement is great, but the rock in the depths of the cave can be especially dirty and nasty if it hasn't been cleaned recently.
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