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This is an absolute classic! Somewhat hidden as it is located about 5 minutes up-canyon from the main area, this route is well worth the walk. Start on a nice flat ledge (w/ plaque) and climb the thin (green Alien) crack, with feet, for 10 or so feet until you can lunge for a jug on the arete. Hit this, swing around the arete and mantle up, using a somewhat suspect block. Clip a bolt and begin to lieback like mad up the ever widening, tips to thin hands, crack. Rest as long as possible below the intimidating, 15' horizontal roof, and then monkey your way out with perfect hand jams. Round the lips and clip the anchors.
A couple notes - You will be able to lower down, but it would be extremely difficult to clean this route while lowering down, someone will need to follow it. Also, watch where your rope runs when you top out around the roof, the rope can push cams WAY back into the crack.
This route is about 5 minutes up-canyon (west) from Flapper. It will be obvious, though you won't be able to see it until you are at the base.
3 tips sizes (blue TCU/green Alien/blue BD), one of everything from grey Camalot to red Camalot (a #2 Friend is nice, too), 2 or 3 gold Camalots, 1 #3 Camalot, and one draw. Chains at the anchor.
|By Brad Winters|
Oct 8, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
This is one of my favorite routes in The Monument. It is so crazy trying to stick your feet to the arete froggie style at the end of the roof, and the crack goes to cupped hands there for me, too. Zowie!
Be careful with the run of the rope at the end of the roof. If a second falls near the end, it can shred the rope if it runs on the outside of the face then under the roof to a piece. Ask Thad!
|By Jesse Zacher|
From: Grand Junction, Co
Dec 4, 2011
This is a classic! I would say it is in the top 10 for The Monument for sure. I found climbing the corner high and past the ledge you grab to place gear made the move to the bolt less heady. Have a blue Metolius for after the bolt! Worth the short hike over there! After you clip the chains, flick the rope out of the crack.
|By Michael Logan|
Nov 10, 2013
Rope management is really tricky on this route. After clipping the chains, we flipped the rope out of the crack, removed most of the gear from under the roof, and extended a runner on the one remaining piece under the roof. When the second fell, the rope was still damaged by the sharp edge at the lip of the roof. My recommendation for safely seconding this pitch is for the leader to remove all the gear from under the roof and for the second to run a fairly exciting, free snake TR to the chains. Use a relatively large diameter rope too. I'd also recommend bringing at least 2 red Camalots and more than 2 gold Camalots.