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Sorcerer's Apprentice 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 800', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Vern Clevenger, Tom Carter, Alan Bard, and Bob Harrington, July 1978
Page Views: 3,117
Submitted By: Monica Jones on Aug 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Abel on the first pitch of Sorcerer's Apprentice.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


The crux is a section of 5.11A slab that's a little run out, but over a shiny, retrofitted bolt. You should link the 5.8 and 5.9 runout pitches because there's really isn't any protection, save for a couple quarter inch rusty bolts and occassional pro so it's easy to link them. All the other pitches are pretty well protected but you should be comfortable running it out over easier terrain.


It starts to the left of lucky streaks on a 5.10A easily protected crack. Easy 5th class at the top to join the walk off of Lucky Streaks.


Natural pro with a shiny bolt at the crux and a couple old quarter inchers

Photos of Sorcerer's Apprentice Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing up the Golden corner of the second 10b pi...
Climbing up the Golden corner of the second 10b pi...
Topo of Sorcerer's Apprentice from Clint
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Sorcerer's Apprentice from Clint
P2-P4 of Sorcerer's Apprentice, P3-P4 Scavenger, P...
BETA PHOTO: P2-P4 of Sorcerer's Apprentice, P3-P4 Scavenger, P...

Comments on Sorcerer's Apprentice Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 19, 2015
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 18, 2011

Pretty thin description of an 800' route.
By Monica Jones
From: CO
Jul 30, 2011

Feel free to add to it.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 14, 2011

There's ample description of this route elsewhere. She's just adding some info the typos don't provide. That's for including this route. Now, if someone will just add some info on Mr. Kamps (.11b).
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 30, 2011

Mr. Kamps info: redrocksguidebook.com/forum/vi...
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Mar 27, 2012

Easy Monica. I think Caught has a legitimate point, i.e. the whole point of entering a route into the MP database is so that folks can get the information that they need to climb the route....and that type of information is not included in your description. Because when you add a route it prevents others from doing so, I think it behooves the route entering party to do a complete job. Cheers.
By TeleRoss
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 28, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

excellent route with thought provoking, varied climbing. Really outstanding. Not grade V tho. More like III-III+
By -robin-
Mar 17, 2014

FA: Vern Clevenger, Tom Carter, Alan Bard, and Bob Harrington, July 1978
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 18, 2014

Caught and Albers should pass that recommendation onto Don Reid.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Aug 19, 2014

The crux is a section of 5.11A slab that's a little run out, but over a shiny, retrofitted bolt

Retrofitted as in added where no bolt existed before.... or as a replacement for the original bolt in the same position???
By tarallo
Oct 17, 2014

climbed the route in August i linked the two pitches of the sea of knobs (70m rope) as suggested. on the second pitch of the sea i missed the bolt ( i climbed slightly on the left from the belay 5.8 for me) showed on the topo,30 /35 m of runout, and arrived at the two bolts.the two bolts were linked by a old sling and as soon as i touched the sling one bolt came off, so i decided to climb back as i did not want to do the move to go left that seemed hard protected by only one 1/4 inch rusty bolt.
i returned this october with a new bolt and i did the same thing as the previous time,but this time on the second pitch of the sea i climbed a little bit on the right from the belay and i found the bolt.climbing this way i found the pitch harder than the previous time 5.9(5.8) as indicated on the topo.
i replaced the old bolt with a new 8mm inox fix.
my feeling was right the move was hard ,no way 5.9 !!,for me 10b !! at least .
the following pitch was very nice and we finished the route,the last pitch not so hard as the previuos pitch.
at the end great route the 11a not so hard.
i was not able to use the hole of the missing bolt as inside there was half of the broken bolt.
ciao and goog climbing
By Corey Flynn
From: USA
Mar 19, 2015

ive lead every pitch on this thing twice and for me the scariest/hardest part was the pitch after the sea of knobs where you have to make a "5.8" mantle a good 12 feet out of an old quarter inch bolt on some flakey dime edge terrain above a ledge. the first time i attempted this route it was my first route on the fairview dome and my friend slipped off the 5.8 move and twisted his ankle badly on the ledge. the old bolt held but we were forced to make a lengthly retreat with a single 70m rope. after that trip it was hard to find somebody to trade leads with me so i just got friends to belay me. my first time leading the pitch after the sea of knobs it felt really easy but a summer later i went back to do it again and on "the move" i broke my hand handhold and was barely able to press thru. to me the entire route comes down to this three feet of climbing but otherwise this climb is baller. link the sea of knobs pitches and bring a doob or beer for the cave belay before the last pitch
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