Sorcerer's Apprentice  5.10c

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet FA:  Traufield, Hubbel, Schauvajsa? Submitted By:  slim on Sep 16, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route lies in a little nook up around the right side of The Flagship. It will be obvious when you see it. It is a striking corner hand and fist crack with a large chockstone about 60 feet up. The crack is very easy to see from the top of Renaissance Slab.

p1 (5.10c/d, 80 feet?) Start up the corner with fingery liebacks. Pull into the main crack section and climb locker hand jams with a few fists and a couple wider sections. Pull over the huge chockstone (crux). I set up a belay here (stopper and .75 camalot) as we only had a tiny rack, but you could probably continue. We felt this pitch was probably 5.9 and very good quality.

p2 (9, 100 feet) Step right onto a slab and pull into a nice seam/finger crack. Straight up this to a ledge, traverse slightly right over scary blocks to a thin, arching left facing flake. up this flake, undercling left, and then pull straight up over it. Belay. This pitch was kind of cool, double ropes were pretty helpful.

The guidebook shows a rap station, but we couldn't find it. We hiked/scrambled up to the north, and then headed east and south down a huge gully. Bring hedgeclippers.

Protection 

Standard platte rack - stoppers and a set or two of cams to fist size.