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 ADVANCED
West Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charon's Boat S 
Dragon Direct T 
Knight of Swords S 
Merlin's Enigma S 
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 

Sorcerer's Apprentice 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Laurel Miller, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 735
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Sep 18, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Sorcerer's Apprentice. A fun moderate route. The h...

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Description 

This fun little route ascends the west-facing wall behind the Wall of The Goddess buttress. Approach as for Wall of The Goddess, then continue around (east) to the boulder gully at the bottom of Charon's Boat. Hike to the top of the gully and turn left.

Step left from a flat block and climb excellent rock to the top of the wall. It is possible to climb past the 2-ring anchor and belay from a tree on the ledge beneath the Wall of The Dragon.

Protection 

3 bolts to a 2-bolt ring anchor. Lower off. Supplemental gear may be used up to 1.5 inches.


Photos of Sorcerer's Apprentice Slideshow Add Photo
Yvonne stemming past the first bolt.
Yvonne stemming past the first bolt.

Comments on Sorcerer's Apprentice Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A nice warm-up route that gets good afternoon sun. The hardest move is getting to the anchor from the last bolt; come in from the left to keep the grade moderate.

Great views looking up the canyon from the saddle just above the start; the huge rock spanning the gully is amazing.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

You can also climb this thing belly to the bolts past the last clip and to the anchors without going left, which it looked like the bolt line was trying to force. Small slopers will be on the menu and it is probably 5.11b or so, done that way.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jul 5, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The crux is definitely above the last bolt, and moving left keeps the route 5.7.