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Sorcerer's Apprentice Right
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 22
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Routes in The Sorcerer's Apprentice
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Sorcerer's Apprentice Left T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sorcerer's Apprentice Right T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Chip Chace, Jeff Achey |
| Page Views: | 3,484 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Johnson on Mar 22, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route is located on the right side of the Sorcerer's Apprentice. It is very obvious. The route offers three pitches of sustained, exciting climbing. The rock on the route resembles varnish wingate, but actually has some seriously crumbly rock on every pitch. Pitches two and three are probably a little sandbagged, but hey, you be the judge. PITCH 1: There are two ways to start pitch one. You can either go straight up the obvious finger crack or climb the flake to the right. The rock is a little slick here and the protection can be tricky. Be sure to bring small stuff. Belay at the tied-off chockstone. PITCH 2: Head straight up the dihedral starting with the offwidth. This pitch is a bit of an enduro fest, but stick with it. The second pitch goes through every size from offwidth to tips. Belay in the "eye" where it is possible to walk behind the pillar. There are no fixed anchors. You can build an anchor with camalot sizes .75 through 3. PITCH 3: Climb out of the eye to the climber's right, over the belay and into one awesome dihedral. It starts off thin hands and then the crack tapers to nothing. It seems really hard at first, but once you realize that there are quite a few features on both faces the climbing becomes really fun. Just stem your way through the pitch and believe in the friction. Belay at fixed anchors at the top of the pillar. Bring small stuff. Wires may be helpful
DESCENT: Rappel down Sorcerer's Apprentice Left (The opposite side of the pillar from the route). Then either walk off down the ramp (very long), or do a double rope rappel from the fixed anchors on the ledge. We used two 60 meter ropes. I don't know if 50s will make it.
DESCENT: Rappel down Sorcerer's Apprentice Left (The opposite side of the pillar from the route). Then either walk off down the ramp (very long), or do a double rope rappel from the fixed anchors on the ledge. We used two 60 meter ropes. I don't know if 50s will make it.
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