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 ADVANCED
The Bookend
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Feud T 
Bombay Chimney T 
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 
Corinthian Column T 
Great Dihedral, The T 
Grovelly Chimney T 
Handbook T 
Hot Licks T 
Knight's Gambit T 
Knight's Gambit Variation T 
Labor of Lust T 
Orange Julius T 
Pineapple Juice T,S 
Sicilian Defense T 
Sorcerer T 
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 
Southern Cross T 
Strawberry Short Cake T 
Summer Festival T 
Sun King T 
Tarantula T 
Treebeard T 
Truth T 
Unknown Chasm T 
Wide Gauge T 
Winds of Fortune T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Snivley, sort of
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Apr 2, 2011

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Description 

Not really a route, per se, but in the event you're going to get weathered off of Sorcerer, this traverse allows for retreat without leaving a bunch of gear in that funky crack.

From points along the Sorcerer dihedral that are roughly even with the P1 anchors on Climb of the Ancient Mariner, it is possible to traverse the slab leftward and reach the anchors after about 20 or so feet of protection-free 5.9 slab climbing. From this bolted anchor, one can escape from the face with one ~33 meter rappel, or a 30 m rappel with a bit of 5.6 downclimbing.

Protection 

None, and a fall is ill advised as it would swing you back into the Sorcerer corner. It's likely that anybody who has led P2 of Climb of the Ancient Mariner without sweating wouldn't have much trouble making the traverse safely.

Nota Bene 

Once the leader makes the Climb of the Ancient Mariner anchors, the second can either follow the slab or make a reasonable downclimb/pendulum out of the Sorcerer corner. Obviously, utilizing this traverse as an escape would require recognizing oncoming weather in a timely fashion and setting up a belay at an appropriate spot along P1 of Sorcerer, as my partner and I conveniently did.

Interestingly, as a historical note, Doug Snivley probably first covered this ground in the opposite direction after completing the first ascent of P1 of Climb of the Ancient Mariner, belayed by a client, as I understand.


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By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Jun 4, 2012

A great day on the book end. Did ancient Mariner, I'm glad at the time I didn't lead the 2nd pitch, but later in the day we hopped on Sorcerer and on P2 I took the wrong left dihedral and ended out on 5.9+ run out on manky gear. Instead on moving right to the roof of Sorcerer, I ran it out to the last bolt on Mariner. Maybe a posssible (X). This should be considered the Sorcerer to Mariner Variation!!