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 ADVANCED
Chimney Sweep Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bert S 
Flue, The S 
Git Wood S 
Soot T,S 
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Soot 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 192
Submitted By: climber73 on Jul 30, 2013

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Description 

Climb up the left side of a small detached pillar at the bottom of the black streak to the right of The Flue. Make tough moves to gain the shallow, right-leaning dihedral, plug gear where needed to get through to the top of the corner, and gain the last 2 bolts prior to reaching the 2 bolt anchor.

Location 

This is the third route from the left on Middle Class Wall proper.

Protection 

2 bolts at the start, multiple finger and smaller size pieces in the dihedral, 2 bolts on the finishing stretch to the 2 bolt anchor. The gear after pulling into the dihedral could be tough to place on lead.


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By Henry Lester
Aug 11, 2013

If you go up to the top of the pillar and then up and left rather than straight left at the second bolt, the route is 5.11c.
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