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a.brown
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Oct 23, 2012
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Boise, ID
· Joined Apr 2011
· Points: 50
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H BL
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Oct 23, 2012
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Colorado
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 95
Was waiting for the "soooooo Big" part then holy SH*&!!!!!!
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a.brown
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Oct 23, 2012
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Boise, ID
· Joined Apr 2011
· Points: 50
Bump think everyone should see this
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germsauce Epstein
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Oct 23, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2010
· Points: 55
this should be posted every time someone starts asking how to take "practice falls". good gear works, bad gear sometimes works.
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Nick Stayner
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Oct 23, 2012
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Wymont Kingdom
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 2,315
Cool vid. Anyone know who the climber is? Looks a lot like a guy I went to school with at Appalachian State a few years ago. I agree w/ Germsauce too... "This is how you climb above your gear".
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Scott McMahon
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Oct 23, 2012
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 1,425
Is it just me or is that metolius a REALLY bad placement? It's right below the flare that pretty much doubles in size. I could be wrong but it looks like a textbook poor placement.
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bearbreeder
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Oct 23, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 3,065
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jmeizis
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Oct 23, 2012
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Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 230
Yeah that did not look like the ideal spot for that Metolious cam. What's up with running it out like that? My pussy ass would of placed more gear but I guess he thought he was safe enough and so he was. How hard is this route anyways? Some angles it looks like 5.10, others 5.11.
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user id
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Oct 23, 2012
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SMOGden, UT
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 75
Scott McMahon wrote:Is it just me or is that metolius a REALLY bad placement? It's right below the flare that pretty much doubles in size. I could be wrong but it looks like a textbook poor placement. pleaz stfu&d.
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Scott McMahon
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Oct 23, 2012
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 1,425
user id wrote: pleaz stfu&d. Took me a minute to figure that out. You must be an 11 year old girl. I think TMZ is on and your missing it...
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JCM
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Oct 24, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 115
jmeizis wrote:How hard is this route anyways? Some angles it looks like 5.10, others 5.11. For some reason my memory, form seeing this video before, recalls hearing that it is 12b. This may be totally incorrect, however.
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generationfourth
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Oct 24, 2012
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Irvine, CA
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 10
The two things I like about the vid are of course #1 the fall, and #2 they actually showed gear placements being made. Most videos always edit these two out for some reason.
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BScallout
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Oct 24, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 0
Scott McMahon wrote:Is it just me or is that metolius a REALLY bad placement? It's right below the flare that pretty much doubles in size. I could be wrong but it looks like a textbook poor placement. It's you BTW. user id wrote: pleaz stfu&d. +1. Armchair shot calling huh? Nothing, weaker.
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Scott McMahon
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Oct 24, 2012
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 1,425
BScallout wrote: It's you BTW. +1. Armchair shot calling huh? Nothing, weaker. hmm...all this time i though placing a finger sized cam at the bottom of a flaring fist sized crack was a bad idea. That's why I asked, not to "shot call". And it's the internet...we are all in armchairs, unless your posting your opinion from the crag.
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Tony B
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Oct 24, 2012
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Around Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 24,665
Looks to be in the Red River Gorge, but I don't recognize the wall or route. There were very few 12's in my time there (20 years ago) so maybe it is from the new crags or development? Anybody know?
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Finn The Human
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Oct 24, 2012
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The Land of Ooo
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 106
Scott McMahon wrote: ...we are all in armchairs, unless your posting your opinion from the crag. Folding chair, here. I wish my chair had arms.
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GMBurns
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Oct 24, 2012
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The Fucking Moon, man, the…
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 470
How much of that is a soft catch? Yeah, pretty big, that looked to be a pretty decent catch, too.
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Nick Stayner
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Oct 24, 2012
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Wymont Kingdom
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 2,315
Scott McMahon wrote: hmm...all this time i though placing a finger sized cam at the bottom of a flaring fist sized crack was a bad idea. I agree that was my first thought when I saw that placement too, but it's hard, if not impossible, to judge the quality of someone's placement via a distance camera shot. Obviously the guy places gear right at least some of the time!
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Morgan Patterson
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Oct 24, 2012
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NH
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 8,960
id say at least 1/2 of that was a soft catch...
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Scott McMahon
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Oct 24, 2012
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 1,425
Nick Stayner wrote: I agree that was my first thought when I saw that placement too, but it's hard, if not impossible, to judge the quality of someone's placement via a distance camera shot. Obviously the guy places gear right at least some of the time! While watching, I initially thought that was the point of the video... that his piece was going to walk into the flare and he was going to take a massive fall (which he did anyways).
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Sir Wanksalot
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Oct 24, 2012
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County Jail
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 10
Scott McMahon wrote: While watching, I initially thought that was the point of the video... that his piece was going to walk into the flare and he was going to take a massive fall (which he did anyways). No offense, Scott, but you post a hell of a lot more than you climb. That placement was obviously slotted into a good constriction, and to be honest, commenting on placements from the comfort of your desk kinda proves you could use more field experience. As for the video... I wish I had the comfidence to climb like that... guess I should wank less on the webz.
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