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Oct 23, 2012
v6
a.brown
Joined Apr 24, 2011
44 points
Oct 23, 2012
Axes glistening in the sun
Was waiting for the "soooooo Big" part then holy SH*&!!!!!! "H"
From Manitou Springs
Joined Feb 13, 2006
59 points
Oct 23, 2012
v6
Bump think everyone should see this a.brown
Joined Apr 24, 2011
44 points
Oct 23, 2012
Hippos kill people
this should be posted every time someone starts asking how to take "practice falls". good gear works, bad gear sometimes works. germsauce
Joined Jun 14, 2010
66 points
Oct 23, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
Cool vid. Anyone know who the climber is? Looks a lot like a guy I went to school with at Appalachian State a few years ago.

I agree w/ Germsauce too... "This is how you climb above your gear".
Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Joined Mar 6, 2006
2,586 points
Oct 23, 2012
Bocan
Is it just me or is that metolius a REALLY bad placement? It's right below the flare that pretty much doubles in size.

I could be wrong but it looks like a textbook poor placement.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Oct 23, 2012
good soft catch bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
1,876 points
Oct 23, 2012
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater ...
Yeah that did not look like the ideal spot for that Metolious cam. What's up with running it out like that? My pussy ass would of placed more gear but I guess he thought he was safe enough and so he was. How hard is this route anyways? Some angles it looks like 5.10, others 5.11. jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2008
250 points
Oct 23, 2012
DUDE! Your ankles....
Scott McMahon wrote:
Is it just me or is that metolius a REALLY bad placement? It's right below the flare that pretty much doubles in size. I could be wrong but it looks like a textbook poor placement.

pleaz stfu&d.
user id
Joined Mar 19, 2009
120 points
Oct 23, 2012
Bocan
user id wrote:
pleaz stfu&d.


Took me a minute to figure that out. You must be an 11 year old girl.

I think TMZ is on and your missing it...
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Oct 24, 2012
jmeizis wrote:
How hard is this route anyways? Some angles it looks like 5.10, others 5.11.


For some reason my memory, form seeing this video before, recalls hearing that it is 12b.

This may be totally incorrect, however.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Oct 24, 2012
The two things I like about the vid are of course #1 the fall, and #2 they actually showed gear placements being made. Most videos always edit these two out for some reason. generationfourth
From Irvine, CA
Joined Mar 2, 2008
16 points
Oct 24, 2012
Scott McMahon wrote:
Is it just me or is that metolius a REALLY bad placement? It's right below the flare that pretty much doubles in size. I could be wrong but it looks like a textbook poor placement.


It's you BTW.


user id wrote:
pleaz stfu&d.


+1.

Armchair shot calling huh? Nothing, weaker.
BScallout
Joined Jul 16, 2009
18 points
Oct 24, 2012
Bocan
BScallout wrote:
It's you BTW. +1. Armchair shot calling huh? Nothing, weaker.


hmm...all this time i though placing a finger sized cam at the bottom of a flaring fist sized crack was a bad idea. That's why I asked, not to "shot call".


And it's the internet...we are all in armchairs, unless your posting your opinion from the crag.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Oct 24, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Looks to be in the Red River Gorge, but I don't recognize the wall or route. There were very few 12's in my time there (20 years ago) so maybe it is from the new crags or development?
Anybody know?
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,493 points
Oct 24, 2012
Mathematical!
Scott McMahon wrote:
...we are all in armchairs, unless your posting your opinion from the crag.


Folding chair, here. I wish my chair had arms.
Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Joined Jul 11, 2008
123 points
Oct 24, 2012
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil.  (...
How much of that is a soft catch? Yeah, pretty big, that looked to be a pretty decent catch, too. GMBurns
Joined Jul 15, 2008
523 points
Oct 24, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
Scott McMahon wrote:
hmm...all this time i though placing a finger sized cam at the bottom of a flaring fist sized crack was a bad idea.


I agree that was my first thought when I saw that placement too, but it's hard, if not impossible, to judge the quality of someone's placement via a distance camera shot. Obviously the guy places gear right at least some of the time!
Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Joined Mar 6, 2006
2,586 points
Administrator
Oct 24, 2012
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
id say at least 1/2 of that was a soft catch... Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,415 points
Oct 24, 2012
Bocan
Nick Stayner wrote:
I agree that was my first thought when I saw that placement too, but it's hard, if not impossible, to judge the quality of someone's placement via a distance camera shot. Obviously the guy places gear right at least some of the time!


While watching, I initially thought that was the point of the video... that his piece was going to walk into the flare and he was going to take a massive fall (which he did anyways).
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Oct 24, 2012
Scott McMahon wrote:
While watching, I initially thought that was the point of the video... that his piece was going to walk into the flare and he was going to take a massive fall (which he did anyways).


No offense, Scott, but you post a hell of a lot more than you climb. That placement was obviously slotted into a good constriction, and to be honest, commenting on placements from the comfort of your desk kinda proves you could use more field experience.

As for the video... I wish I had the comfidence to climb like that... guess I should wank less on the webz.
Sir Wanksalot
From County Jail
Joined Sep 29, 2011
14 points
Oct 24, 2012
Bocan
Randy W. wrote:
No offense, Scott, but you post a hell of a lot more than you climb. That placement was obviously slotted into a good constriction, and to be honest, commenting on placements from the comfort of your desk kinda proves you could use more field experience. As for the video... I wish I had the comfidence to climb like that... guess I should wank less on the webz.


Eh no offense taken...I've been dealing with bad tendonitis most of the spring / summer and work in an office as well.

I meant it to be more of a question than a statement really.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Oct 24, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!
Jon Moen wrote:
For some reason my memory, form seeing this video before, recalls hearing that it is 12b. This may be totally incorrect, however.


Nope, you are correct.
camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Joined Jun 27, 2006
1,369 points
Oct 24, 2012
Friends big puppy
sexy catch, would have liked to see the belayer. He bounces off the wall afterwards like nothing happened Greg Springer
From Minneapolis
Joined May 27, 2011
20 points
Administrator
Oct 24, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Hmmm...
Hmmm...


Awesome fall. Big balls for the runout, but I gotta say I agree with Scott. If that thing walked, which we'll never ever know, it would have flared and popped bigtime. You don't have to climb .12b (which as a disclaimer, I cannot) on gear to know that. Awesome vid.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
997 points
Oct 24, 2012
v6
Is it really that big of a deal about the cam placement? None of you are even climbing on it. Just enjoy the big wip. a.brown
Joined Apr 24, 2011
44 points


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