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Soon-to-be-local 411: LVCLC, etc.
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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Feb 6, 2013
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

Hey everyone,

Just looking to kinda get the climber info for moving to Vegas. I went to high school in Vegas (graduated 05 and have spent time off and on in LV but not more than a summer or thre) and understand the basics of the city, but am looking for more climber-specific info.

#1 - Xavier Wasiak has sold me on the idea of joining up with the LVCLC to try to help out with things - how do I do this? Last time we went climbing it was "if you get this job..." well, got the gig and am moving to LV. How do I join up and what can I do to help?

#2 - Local community - what is the local community like? Any particular local hangs? High season and things have been fairly quiet on this sub-forum other than (to be expected) partner requests.

#3 - Summer climbing recommendations - Not a huge sport climber although I do plan on checking out what Charleston has to offer. I'm a trad climber for the most part and I know that most of Icebox can be climbed during summer or playing the early morning/late evening game in Calico Basin can work for bouldering. Any other recommendations?

#4 - Climbing gym - Is the one by Desert Rock Sports any good? How much for a month? Debating whether I should just plan on going out and TR soloing for climbing workouts or going to the gym...

Other than that, I'm psyched to be living and working in town and am moving down at the end of the month. Probably will be renting off of 215 and Charleston if I get my way as we have things down to two houses, both there.

Thanks again and am looking forward to meeting local and visiting climbers alike!

Weston


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 6, 2013

#1- Do a joint membership on the Access Fund's page. Like them on Facebook for info about whats going on.

#2- Its good. There arent special hangs so to speak. Every once in awhile some folks do a beer night (posted on here), the gym can be a good way to find partners, depending on your preferences. So can this site. Can take awhile to find your niche, but most folks I know are pretty happy here. DRS is a good place to connect with climbers as Bill and Travis tend to know whats shaking week to week.

#3- Summer. Icebox actually isnt the best option as the sun is high enough in the sky to bake a good chunk of the canyon. You can climb in RR- you just need to be on the truly north aspects- Black Velvet and Pine Creek have the best aspects for this. Charleston is okay. Arrow Canyon is another option. Road tripping is the best option- everywhere has its off season, Vegas has it during the summer. Luckily, the climbing is really good in alot of other places in the summer.

#4- R2C2 is a good gym for its age and setup- but it is old (built in the mid-1990's) and not designed for anything but overhanging climbing (all but about 300' of its 8,000' of wall space overhang in some way). I'm a bit biased- I work there as a setter, but I've been to my share of gyms and I think its worth it if you're there to train to get stronger. A month is $65, but it gets cheaper (down to $45) if you commit to longer than a month. I'd say it depends on your schedule- if you live near Charleston and the 215, you can be in Calico inside of 10 minutes. Bouldering is very close. TR soloing is somewhat close (Cannibal is closest), but setup time can eat into your workout depending on time and daylight. Calico is a day use only area, so as soon as its dark, you need to be leaving. If you have days off, i'd say pass on the gym. If you work days, the gym membership will be nice.


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By Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
Feb 6, 2013
beck on limestone

Weston,

Welcome to Nevada. Dan McQuade said "there is more rock here than you could climb in your lifetime". I'd agree.

LVCLC is worth joining. Might even find some partners there in the meetings. If you don't already drive a 4x4 put that on your "list".

My experience finding partners when new here was less than satisfactory. Coming from Joshua Tree and not used to "no shows no call", I had a lot of people blow me off at the last moment.

Maybe something to do with water or the short drive time makes for a casual commitment or the pervasive sport climbing, people seem to congregate in cliques. more than some other areas ...I don't know. Never could figure it out. I retaliated by overbooking and being ruthless with no shows regardless of what they could lead.

Gradually I got myself a stable of partners who are pretty reliable and committed. Yet climbing partners don't stay here long term so I find myself always replacing the ones who leave Vegas.

Red Rocks Climbing Gym can be good for meeting prospective partners, posting here sometimes, cruising the campground, visit Desert Rock Sports and hang out or post a note. There are 2 meet up groups active in the area that have climbing members. When really desperate you can go to the Panty Wall, Magic Bus, Gallery, Black Corridor, Ragged Edges on a weekend and maybe find someone to climb with who is also local. You will find the usual spraylords and posers. I'd say there is a pretty thriving climbing community here year round now.

I'd agree with John, bouldering is likely your simplest workout. Top rope soling opportunities on a limited time window are fewer; Cannibal and Moderate Mecca come to mind.

Climbing in the summer..either suffer the approaches and get up early for the shady walls. Climb shorter single pitch routes in the afternoon in early spring, take road trips to Arizona, California, Utah, Idaho or journey to Mt. Charleston in summer.

Staying local all year, 2012 I began going high mid May. Approaches are a little longer and there is the altitude plus all the route beta is word of mouth. There are routes there which take a standard rack. True...there are also a lot of bolts, cause it's limestone, but not all routes are really hard sport test-pieces.


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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Feb 6, 2013
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

John,

Thanks!


Thomas,

Thanks for the welcome, although I currently live in Reno (yes, that is Nevada ;-) ) and lived in Vegas from 01-05. I would agree with McQuade as well.

Will have to wait until I get my first couple of paychecks, this move is stretching me thin. Already drive a 4x4 so check and check.

Vegas does seem to be a place where flakes congregate, noticed that in my first stint down there and was appalled. Is what it is I guess, but I plan on NOT being one of those people. Reno folks have been pretty reliable for the most part, so I'll keep my expectations of humanity at a moderate level.

Eh, hell, rather than hang and beg for randoms I'd rather go TR soloin' if I have a day to kill, or have my girlfriend belay and hang out, although for whatever reason she won't climb. Maybe this friendly sandstone as opposed to granite will change that? One can only hope.

The bouldering is SO good and there are plenty of easy/moderate problems that I could incorporate a trail run/boulder without a pad circuit that would provide a pretty solid workout I would think.

I only get two days off a week so most likely would be adventuring within a 5 MAYBE 6 hour radius, basically the furthest North I'd go is Tuolumne or Bridgeport (Hulk). South, during the summer I am excited to check out Tahquitz as I have never been there before.

Intrigued by Charleston but just want to climb in summer, trad preferably. Would be neat to check out the BC routes, don't mind a long hike at all on a weekend day.

Thanks again for the info!


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By Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 7, 2013
Third pillar of dana descent.

Welcome Weston! Drop me a line if you ever want to get out. The lvlc and beer nights will be your best bet as well as posting on here. Cheers!


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By Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 7, 2013
Third pillar of dana descent.

And by the way... I think the Nevada forum is well over due for a beer night.


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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Feb 7, 2013
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

Thanks!

Beer night one of the first weeks of March maybe?

And yeah man, I'd be psyched to tie in with ya. Just super excited to get to sample what Red Rock has and really immerse myself in it. I also have a feeling my guest room is going to be a revolving door of itinerant climber friends from other locales, lol. The house I just applied to rent has a nice fire pit in the back...it amazes me how cheap it is in LV for a quality neighborhood and nice house. Wish I had the coin to buy right now.


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By Andrew Yasso
Feb 15, 2013
Top of Rainbow Buttress

Weston,

See the following post: mountainproject.com/v/las-vegas-climbers-liaison-council-gen>>>

LVCLC is having a meeting next week. We would love to have you join.


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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Feb 15, 2013
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

Andrew, I move down on March 2 so unfortunately I will be unable to make it to this one but I look forward to making the next one and helping out with whatever I can.

W


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