Start crouched with both hands in the angled seam. Climb through an engaging mix of physical and balancy movements straight up to the summit. Do not bail left underneath the shallow roof once you reach the crimps.
This is one of my favorite climbs in the entire SB area, but that is likely due as much to the climbing as the amount of effort it took to clean and solve this problem.
Similar to the Conch, I have a hard time determining the difficulty of this problem. It is unlike most other climbs in SB, and hence I don't have much to compare it to. Second, third, fourth, etc. opinions would be most welcome.
On the same boulder as Ballet Lessons, but on the opposite (inland facing/North) side. From The Brute follow the trail downhill towards the base of the canyon. This problem will be on your left as you walk down the hill. About 40 feet downhill from the Brute Boulder.
Pads and Spotter
Keeping it together on the balancy topout for the ...
|By Tim King|
Feb 7, 2013
Nice work on this one, Sean! Got a few peeps out there today to check it out. No full send (broke a piece off that upper crescent crimp which foiled the send; shouldn't affect difficulty), but solid V7 seems about right (report back after clean send). And in warm conditions, good luck...
Powerful, delicate, balancy, awkward... Great climb! Especially once it's fully cleaned up, a new classic Potters Point problem.
edit: Prime conditions certainly help on this problem...
|By Sean Denny|
Feb 17, 2013
Prime conditions definitely help. The move left to the sloping edge is waaaaaayyy harder when its not cold.